Nevado de CACHI
SALTA - ARGENTINA REPUBLIC
By Jaime Suárez
The Nevado de Cachi, mountain range extends from north to south, is one of the major mountain systems in the province of Salta. The nine stand him peaks, the highest being the Libertador General San Martin, 6,380 m. It is in the Eastern Cordillera, about 90 miles as the crow flies from the capital of Salta and just over 200 kilometers of border with Chile.
There is a beautiful and accurate book, "The Nevado de Cachi" Christian Vitry, where you can deepen the understanding of this beautiful snow.
Brief
The first attempt to climb this mountain was in charge of a German explorer, Frederick Reichert, in June 1904. He was also the first rise high in the Andes. Cafayate and Mills went through until you reach a farm called Lurucatao, last village, where mules were bred, and from there, looking for salt, mules and departed with load, Nevado West of North. In their advance, looking at the snowy mass could not resist the temptation to climb it. With mules progressed from east to nearly 5,000 meters and then, without any company undertook the ascent to the summit. A stormy wind chill made it back was quoted as saying, "in the 6,200 meters," unable to reach the top. That route is now known as the West or Reichert.
The first people to top it off, without regard to any pre-Columbian culture, was Dr. Arne Hoygaard, accompanied by the Franciscan Friar and Lt. Oliver Pelicelli 1 Peter Di Easter, 1950.
Contact the Nevado de Cachi
In May 2000 we received an invitation to the then Federation of Mountaineering Mendoza, on the initiative of the Club Salta Adventure, the Friends of the Mountain Club and the Club Janajman Mountain to participate in the "National Mountain - Cachi 2000", which would be the first in a series of encounters for most of the next decade will continue in different provinces.
Cachi, by the magic of archaeological heritage, historical, cultural and even religious, together with the nearby presence of snow, was the ideal place for a gathering of mountaineers. The same was successful and culminated in an expedition to the snowy peaks, where I could not participate in work commitments, and I would like unfinished business.
Ten years later, I accepted an invitation from me Nicholas Pantaleone Nevado Jump to climb from the days of Holy Week.
The issue:
We find Nicholas Pantaleone in Catamarca, a little beyond and Alpasinche Aimogasta in junction of Route 60 to the 40 that continues to Bethlehem and continue to Cafayate and Cachi. Nicolás, Salta seasoned mountaineer, was returning from a successful expedition where he had climbed Ojos del Salado, common with other dear friends, ushering in a new climbing route they called "bicentennial".
Nico, without rest, but continue with us acclimated mountain activity in Cachi.
In the town of Cachi, S-25, 6066, O-66, 11,068, 2,454 m, we are at 10 , 30 am, with the rest of the participants, who were waiting for us.
begin to prepare the team and dressed to immediately start the expedition. Two hours later we left the van Cachi by a beautiful road, through a flat, green valley with distant and isolated houses with red roofs. The environment was initially sporadic studded cactus, which at one side of the road were planted indicating a long curve. Several small, bright golden cactus pears exhibited. The use of certain sectors of the union slightly sloping valley to the mountain and drying of peppers, gave him a unique feature of the landscape.
far does the vehicle
On Friday 2 April at 13.50 arrived at the site would be our truck or likin Huayco Hondo , near a small stream that contains the river Pailas and infinity pools surrounded by rocks, which reflect an important pre-Columbian past. The posiciónS-25, 0,871, o66, 15,026, the 3,297 m.
At two in the afternoon, we began our march lasting several days, with heavy backpacks containing equipment, food and tents. We were looking for our first camp. We were still tired from the long journey by car and immediately begin a prolonged ascent was not very nice to say, but I had to do it. Nearly 2.4 km below, and the 3,575 meters in height Nico leads us to the ranch of Mrs. Jacinta. This is a small, solidly built of stone, which is not known its location and be fully incorporated into the natural environment blends with and is very possible to go by without discovering it. It is inhabited by this lady, who gives the name, which takes care of his herds of goats. We rested a few minutes and continued the march for a thin heavy track. Their environment, in the first kilometers was studded with rocks of all sizes.
Piedra Grande - First camp
At 9 pm, and having risen during the last hour with the light of the front and Nico shouts locators, we reached our first goal, Piedra Grande, S24, 59,005, o66, 17,571 in the 4,152 m. We set up the tent and immediately after a light supper we lay down to rest and recuperate.
We long delayed 7 hours to travel the 5.5 miles that separated us from our vehicle, a drop of 855 meters.
We do not stop to admire the next morning, over breakfast with tranquility. A quick hummingbird cross several times over our heads. Piedra Grande, as its name suggests, a huge rock, which calculate eye about 9 meters by 20 meters long. You can bivouac in holes left by the stone on the bottom. Is broken in the middle and in sheltered hollows surely ancient inhabitants and hunters.
From the top of the stone Nicholas could communicate with your phone. The view was totally blocked Cachi few hundred meters below, with cotton clouds, whereas to our destination the sun was shining bright.
leave at 11 hours to our next camp.
Stone Island - Second camp
did not last long sunshine. As we continued climbing began to cover the entire sky. It is very nice even though they feel the weight of the backpack, the feeling you experience when passing through areas of meadows which are cut by threads of clear water that descends from the snowy peaks. Also, to overcome rocky slopes, feel the sound of water under rocks. It is life that goes from the top of the mountain, where it nests and where is lavished. Too bad the man respects nature!
Every so often, two or three whitish rocks superimposed on a much more, they gave us an indication of course that we follow. We reached an area of \u200b\u200bmeadows with several small bodies of water and large stones, a little above the Big Island, but ideal for a camping. The position S24, 57,583, o66, 19,366, and the height 4,770 m. It took us almost 6 hours to travel the 4 miles that separated us from our first camp, in a drop of 618 meters. At 5 pm we started to make our tents. This was followed by the inevitable afternoon tea and at 20 hours after dinner, and rest. That night the clouds that had preceded us, discharged water first and then snow, which eventually made us fear that if the storm will continue to hinder us promotion. Luckily the morning sunshine shone on the snowy setting and tents.
Khun Amphitheatre - Third camp
A good breakfast prepared us for the new day. In each camp, apart from leaving the community garbage bag, which would collect the return, we left some clothes and food. We wanted to reduce to the minimum weight of our burden.
Again the lower valley was covered with clouds and into the snow sun shone on the slopes of the amphitheater and Hoygaard glacier.
Stone Island We left at 10.45 am, reaching areas with large rocks, some of which when footsteps were moving, and traveling solitary plains, but almost always with water in sight. It was a delight, taking sips of water with the hollow of his hand, everywhere I could. It is the tastiest water there. Chinchillones met several times, slowly disappearing from our view. Nico found, in the nervous gaze of their parents hovering nearby, two chicks of a bird called Queo and melt into the ground. After a photograph of again put in place. Where it would arrive our camp 3, late in the amphitheater Franz Kun, at 16.30 hours. During that day, Sunday April 4, we waited five and a half hours of arduous march to travel only 2.6 km in a drop of 486 meters. Our position was S24, 57,205, o66, 20,798, in the 5,256 m high.
base camp Fourth Glacier Hoyggard
Knowing it would be short the run of the day, but very demanding because we had to pass from where we were a steep slope to the last camp. We would do it on the top end of the amphitheater. We left at 11.15, having left all that we believe would not need to load. First gently climbed about 150 meters, 500 meters after transit distance, and we are facing a trough, with steep slope, just over 150 meters high, we would place the 5,555 meters, and the amphitheater outside. This last effort it took 1.45 hours. From there, after 40 minutes, we arrived almost 15 hours which would be our last camp S 24,57.173, o66, 21,336, in the 5,615 m. We taken just over 3 hours to travel only 1.2 km, which included a very steep slope, in a total drop of 360 meters.
Looking toward our goal, I could see the glacier about 600 meters ahead lies on the south wall of Hoygaard, is fully formed by penitents. We break down little by little we used to call "eternal snow." Tomorrow would pass nearby.
The weather was excellent and the sun was shining everywhere. The best general mood and expressed during the afternoon tea and conversation groups in the largest tent. A dinner 20 hours, and then we went to sleep. At this point it is impossible not to wake up several times during the night, but soon went back to doze to know that we should wake up at 5 am to start at 6 climb. After 5 hours broke the silence starry night indicating that there was some yelling to get up. ceremony started breakfast and started to get all the team high.
Hoygaard At the top of
We went out, this Tuesday, April 6, time at 6 am, prior to placing some stones inside the tents and close with care. At the start using our headlamps and cold feeling in the fingers, especially at the time of sunrise, by the elevation of the arms at the pole. With the sun rise was more comfortable, though still exhausting. At each break, to contemplate a few kilometers adjacent cusps as the San Miguel and Meléndez, was overwhelming. At 10 am we were all gathered around the stones that mark with an old rod, probably used many years ago as a cane or who knows what significance, the highest peak of Hoygaard. position S24, 56,843, o66, 22,280, and the height of my GPS 6,213 m.
We taken just over 3 hours to travel the 1.8 km . that separated us from the last camp, with a height of 600 meters to the summit of Hoygaard. Not bad. A few feet away stood a lone metal tube of just over five feet tall, attached by two tensors, which some point will have had some function or some contrivance sustained. Three feet from the pile of stones that held the rod and where were the proof, had drawn on the stone floor with a strange whitish penta-cross three feet wide, which raises questions about who had done and whether he or not hundreds of years. Unfortunately if you're not careful you can distort when passing over it. No need to modify anything in a summit, especially when there is archaeological past.
We celebrated with hugs the top, we took the usual photos, we reviewed the records of Summit and add a paper with our data.
The group was divided. Nicholas and Michelle continue towards the main summit of Nevado, accompanied by Marcela and I would go to San Miguel de Palermo. I remember reading the book, which cited the existence Christan at the summit of San Miguel in a drywall semicircular horseshoe shaped a height of about 0.70 and 0.40 m in diameter 1 meter north-south and east-west 1.50. And I was interested to behold.
We parted, prior coordination to establish a radio every hour. Strongly each group faced its next goal. Mica and Nico continue to cruise above the 6,200 m after a distance of 2.6 km to the 6,380 summit of El Libertador. After overcoming long slabs of snow, and soft, they reached the summit of the mountain peak at 13 hours. After the celebration left a banner of his club Janajman, which in October celebrates 25 years of existence.
Nicholas From the summit could communicate with his cell phone. What a paradox!, From the same places, that five hundred years ago, and before Inca, Aymara, did the same to communicate with burning logs.
With Marce descended about 400 meters in a straight direction to San Miguel de Palermo. Then we should rise 170 to reach its summit. All in a distance of 2.6 km long also what we did two distant human silhouettes. Came from San Miguel and headed towards us. We met in the middle of the solitary journey. They were two young, one Chilean and English, having started early in San Miguel had climbed and ascended to the Hoygaard and the Liberator. We continue the steep climb the last 150 m. of San Miguel. Almost at the same time, just after 13 hours, coronábamos both groups at their second summit of the day.
Our position was S24, 56,563, o66, 20,797, and the height of 5,982 meters threw our GPS. From the summit could be seen throughout the valley pans, with their banks, its meadows and rocks. In the end it looked Cachi, and on the horizon, which mingled with the sky, they noticed the thread up the road that connects Cachi to Salta. Piraeus cited in the book could be seen as such, was turned into a hill where an old excelled rod, similar to that of the previous summit, although shorter, having been converted to cross tied with a rumpled cloth that appeared to have been a flag, another piece of rod. Next to him was another major pile of rocks. But the original figure mentioned by Vitry was unrecognizable. It's a shame and crime have no respect and care that construction archaeological beautiful form of drywall, which is repeated in many summits of our mountains. We leave proof and took pictures and then began the descent, we direct the amphitheater project. Nico and Michelle went down the camp and disarmed Hoygaard 4. Later we join both groups in the sharp decline that took us to the location of Camp 3 where spent the night.
Back
The next day we started the hike of over 12 km that separated us from our van. Just arrived, drank some, even cold cans of beer and a little later and rested, we improvised a chopped bread, smoked ham and cheese washed down with a bottle of champagne Millennium. After the start of the return to Salta.
What a small world, shortly after Cachi, during a brief stop at an inn, spa, we would find that Christian and a group headed for a research paper. That night there were the empanadas from Salta and the celebration at the club.
Jaime Suárez
April 2010
rise Sheet:
Members of the expedition:
Micaela Pereyra, Marcela Cicchelli, Nicolas Pantoja and Jaime Suarez.
reached Summit:
Summit Hoygaard 6,213 m. S24 56.843 22.279 o66, for the whole group.
Summit El Libertador 6380 m. O66 55.920 23.445 S24 (estimated), and Nicolas Pantaleon Pereyra Micaela
Summit San Miguel de Palermo, 5982 m. S24 56.563 20.796 o66, Marcela Jaime Suárez
Path:
Pailas or southeast side, is precisely the route and key points in the story.
best time to climb :
Almost throughout the year. Observe snow and its consequences.
Difficulty:
Slightly difficult, but very demanding because of the distance to walk and climb the final stretch. Crampons should be worn, as glaciers are close to the summits.
Team:
Store. Stove. High Mountain Shelter, windbreaker, jacket or jacket and sleeping bag high. Gloves and mittens, shoes. Sticks, hat, sunglasses, UV GPS. By route Pailas normally abundant water for the climb, but at night can freeze the channels. The attack on summit day is to be transported.
Access:
Access from the town of Cachi, which is reached from the capital of Salta and from the south on Route 40 from Cafayate.
Nevado de Cachi - WAYPOINTS
Datum, WGS 84 - DEGREES AND MINUTES
CACHI - -25 , 6066, -66,11.068, Cachi 2,454 m
Huaico H-likin, -25, 0871, -66,15.026, 2 - ABR-10, 3,297 m
Rancho JACINTA, -25, 0316, -66,16.228, 2-ABR-10 3575 m
foot tall, -24,59.005 , -66,17.571, 3-ABR-10, 4152 m
4670, -24,57.833, -66,19.033, 3-ABR- 10, 4670 m
4709, -24,57.762, -66,19.174, 3-ABR-10, 4,708 m
STONE ISLAND, -24,57.583, -66,19.366, 3-ABR-10, 4,770 m
4922, -24,57.508, -66,19.831, 4-ABR-10, 4,921 m
Cascade -24,57.374, -66,20.079, 4-ABR-10 5.002 m
5073, -24,57.291,-66,20.239, 4-ABR-10, 5.073 m
5172, -24,57.297,-66,20.533, 4-ABR-10 5.172 m
5232, -24,57.171,-66,20.731, 4-ABR-10 5231 m
Beg. Khun CAMP, -24,57.205, -66,20.798, 4-ABR-10 5256 m
5411, -24,57.212, -66,21.094, 5-ABR-10, 5411 m
5464, -24,57.156, -66,21.075, 5-ABR-10 5.464 m
5528, -24,57.109,-66,21.100, 5-ABR-10, 5.527 m
Top 5555, -24,57.089,-66,21.106, 5-ABR-10, 5.555 m
Cam 4 -24,57.173,-66,21.336, 5-ABR-10 5.615 m
HOYGAARD, -24,56.843, -66,22.280, 6-ABR-10, 6213 m
Al BC, -24,56.560 , -66,21.093, 6-ABR-10, 5850 m
5928, -24,56.605, -66,20.904, 6-ABR- 10, 5928 m
San Miguel, -24,56.563, -66,20.797, 6-ABR-10, 5982 m
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