ACHAIA
Achaia NEVADO
Summit 10/11/2010
positions 24 and 66 25.085 09.593 - Salta, Rca. Argentina -
Height 5,781 m
Maggui Acevedo, William Almaraz, Eduardo Namur, Jaime Suárez
Nevada Acaya
25th birthday and in JANAJMAN MOUNTAIN CLUB
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Salta - Argentina
By Jaime Suárez
Road to Salta
stringing Again to Salta "la linda". He had been invited to participate in the climb a hill and give a speech to mark the 25 Anniversary of Janajman Mountain Club. This noble institution of mountaineering and Argentina Salta was founded in 1985. During those years, this institution has made countless mountain activities both nationally and internationally important mountaineering and climbing courses, significant redemptions and solidarity actions in mountain areas.
The anniversary event was supported by the Government of Province of Salta, the Administration of Salta, the City of San Antonio Collection and the Argentine Army.
The schedule of activities had already started on October 4 with a permanent exhibition of equipment and photographs mountain, at its headquarters in the street on February 20 735 for the capital city of Salta.
October 9 at 9 am was the opening of the celebrations, with important talks in House of Culture of Salta, then continuing with a recognition authorities and former presidents, and a fellowship lunch at the club scene.
Colonel Valentin Ugarte
Colonel Valentin Ugarte
Juan Almaraz, Enrique Pantaleon Pantaleon Nicholas Martinis Fernando
Luego de ello la partida hacia San Antonio de los Cobres donde esa noche se realizaría una cena fogón para continuar durante el día siguiente las charlas y una mesa debate.
Finalmente el día 11, diferentes grupos, encararían el ascenso del Volcán Tuzgle de 5.530 m, el Nevado Acay de 5.781 m , el Cerro Pompeya de 4.100m, actividades de escalada en el Cerro la Juguetería de 4.200 m .s y un trekking al Cerro Terciopelo de 3.900 m .
Immediately after lunch and after the teams off the meeting and the mountain, several trucks and a bus, we left San Antonio de Los Cobres. Was scheduled a stop, almost halfway, just over 100 kilometers Salta, to visit the ruins of Tastil.
Tastil
Tastil, por sobre los 3.100 metros de altura sobre el nivel del mar, cuyo entorno habitacional cobija en el presente muy pocas personas, albergó en el pasado, unos ciento cincuenta años antes de la invasión inca, algunos miles de almas.
A dos kilómetros de distancia del pueblo y ascendiendo unos 200 metros , se aprecian, aún con magnificencia, los restos del complejo preincaico housing and control center and zonal administration. Since it is easy to contemplate the whole environment surrounding valleys. It consists of a tangle of ruined homes, various venues, twisted and curved streets that converge on a pole. Invited to imagine how busy it would have been the last of that place and way of life of its original inhabitants. It is not surprising to sharpen the eye seen, scattered everywhere, pottery shards and small pieces of obsidian, a result of making arrowheads. Also continuing to look you can see petroglyphs and burial.
Tastil Ruins - Salta
Tastil Sunset over
San Antonio de los Cobres
soon continue our march, to arrive at San Antonio de los Cobres. I checked the odometer on my car, had traveled from out of Mendoza, and after passing through Salta and Tastil, 1,458 miles to get here.
San Antonio de los Cobres was not the same place he had met during the expedition to Llullaillaco in 1995. Had expanded a lot. San Antonio de los Cobre, located approximately 3,700 m and was formerly an Indian village, and then served for the alternative route of the mule trains that passed through colonial Puna de Atacama to Lima, then was stopped during the passage of cattle to feed the miners of nitrate in the Atacama Desert and was also ancient capital of the Territory Nacional de Los Andes. Territory became the province's jurisdiction Salta in 1943, when it was dissolved and had been founded in 1899.
continue during the day after the presentations in San Antonio of the Coppers.
After the toasts and greetings dinner, and a fire that included the participation of young people , began the march towards the bunk where we would spend the night. And the next day expeditions began the program prepared by the organization Janajman Club.
Family Photo at the end of the presentations
In the morning of October 11, just 4 hours, began twitching between berths hall, with consequent noise. He got up the first group of climbers who would leave just after 5 hours for Tuzgle. A second group would one hour later due to the hill Toy Store. The that we should leave the Nevado Acay at 6 am and finally those who were leaving for the Pompeii and velvet, they would at 9 am.
The Nevados de Acay is a mountain that lies about 27 km
He fully appreciated from the route 51, which connects Salta to San Antonio de los Cobres shortly before arriving at the latter place .
After the foothills north of this mountain routes meet 51 and 40 (which comes from Cachi) and continue together, for a few miles to San Antonio de Los Cobres .
rise Sheet: SNOWY ACHAIA
Expedition held on October 11 , 2010
Summit Date: 10/11/1910
Summit reached :
Nevado de Acay Summit.
Position and Altitude :
The position of this summit is: S 24 ° 25,085 and 09,593 or 66 °
Height summit GPS estimated 5,781 m
IGM Height 5,716 m
height, carved (1983) in a small wooden rail cross next to the summit, 5,950 m
Route :
starting from the North Slope area of \u200b\u200bthe mine.
Access:
From Salta we continue through the road No. 51 towards San Antonio de los Cobres, entering from the road (22 Km . before San Antonio de Los Cobres) by a trace, until the end of it.
Members of the expedition to summit :
Maggui Acevedo, William Almaraz, Namur and Jaime Eduardo Suárez.
best time to climb :
Virtually every year, with the care of each season and more and better equipment in winter considering possible snowfall. There are strong winds.
Difficulty :
High mountain. Not difficult. Essential to a good acclimatization and previous experience in running high and high altitude.
Team :
amount is usually in the day, may well be dispensed with tent, sleeping bag and a backpack loaded with weight to back, and if so should take a coat of high mountain gloves and mittens, double shoes, poles, hat, sunglasses, GPS. Bring water. In winter it is convenient to use double boots and crampons.
Started at the time agreed upon and then travel the 22 km . from San Antonio of the Coppers, point S 24,17.490, o66, 9,108 to 3,965 m the altitude, we left the path entering a track that led to the hill. It was a normal traffic until you reach the Piedras Coloradas sector where tongues of ice tapaban our footprint. We had to leave the comfort of the vehicle, and it was easy to drift and find the shovel in the trunk of tools. With the soft rays of the 8 am beginning to illuminate the horizon, we started working on the hard ice cleaning tread grooves that would transit through the wheels of our vehicle. It was an effective job that we take turns. From then on low speed and placed the winding path continue until the end of the road in the area called the mine. There would be the truck, the 5,028 meters high. Time 8.35 hrs. And the position S24, 24,477, o66, 10,552.
To our summit
At 8.50 hours in the backpack carrying some food, some fruit and a liter of water, we began our ascent step.
The summit would be in the day. In this part of the northern Argentine Andes is usually the possibility of a 4x4 to heights that often exceed 4,000 meters and sometimes as in this case, the 5,000, to peaks with heights of around 6,000 meters. Consequently, a difference of 500 or 800 meters is feasible to do so, including the return to the starting point in the day.
this method has advantage in power do in one day, a rise of importance, but it loses more fully appreciate the environment you climb, the talks of the camp, and spend more time in contemplation of the top and all the mountain environment.
Logically, crowning a hilltop in that format, the absence of previous acclimatization, a person must have some degree of adaptability to the elevation, height and experience. I suggest be very careful with novice climbers and people who find it hard to acclimate.
We ascending slowly and steadily and now and then rotating the first row , who played her set the pace. It was very cold, which did not suggest taking any fur gloves. But we thanked the sun's rays and a lack of wind. We would try to do 50 minutes of climb by 10 of rest and maintain it to the summit.
Almost an hour later we were beginning the ascent to 5,230 meters . Overcome two hundred meters of altitude, but the steep climb surface became more sluggish and required more legwork.
At l0, 40 we are replacing the forces 5,364 meters. We had covered a vertical drop of 135 meters more.
An hour later, and already in the 5,500 meters , another gap the same. It was more laborious and the rise of the last 280 meters .
At 12.35 we were in the 5,600 meters . The wind began to bother, and not forsake us.
An hour later, at 5686. We lacked few 100 meters to cap Acay . The cold continued.
Measure the effort and see us while we were looking at the slope, the best slope and ground as possible.
At 14.30 hours a appreciate 50 meters away, with little slope, the ruined the summit cairn and a wooden cross that points.
Gradually we were waiting and closing the group to reach the summit together. At 14.40 hours we completed the climb and touch the large wooden cross which reads "NEVADO DE Achaia ".
That absurd, and the designation of Nevado in many of our mountains. Respond to geographical conditions of the last century. In the central Andes and northern Argentina, at present, are viewed only large white patches of snow, as a result of a storm. Have disappeared, and continue to the glaciers that covered the tops and slopes of many of our peaks. To make matters worse, the open-pit mining chemical is contaminating thousands of liters of water reserves that have resulted and result from the melting snow and glaciers, once considered "eternal" and that are and will be irreplaceable. All that means a lot of wealth for some foreigners, and miserable few dollars for some countrymen, much misery for the future of our populations of mountain ecosystems and pollution future for all.
One by one we were hugging and the occasional gesture changed face tear. He had been an arduous climb, but extremely pleasant to enjoy all the time an exceptional camaraderie. William sought the summit book and stamped our names on it. We noted the paragraphs that wrote the very popular Father Paul Pagano, Janajman Club member, who had been the previous climbers who had ascended.
A sixty miles away to the south, will show profiles of the peaks of the Nevado de Cachi, it was not easy to define But there they were, standing on the horizon.
Probably for the Inca trail that passes through the western slopes of Acay and joined the San Antonio Current Collections in Cachi, spent the advance Diego de Almagro, to proceed along these valleys Calchaquíes to the current Santa Maria, then and finally Shincal Watungasta ( La Troya ), where you would expect the summer of 1536 to cross Copayapo (Copiapo) in Chile, which come in the month of June .
We took the usual photos of summit, with an annoying wind that does not provide the management. William took the opportunity to communicate by telephone and give the new President of Club Janajman, Fernando Martinis, and knowing the way news of the other expeditions. Shortly after the testimony placed in honor of the club 25 years later, spurred by the wind started to return.
In the environment of the summit we could see crumbling walls, perhaps a rectangular building, and could also seen some piles of stones which apparently could have been egg-shaped stone walls.
After just over two and a half long hours, and having undertaken a more direct descent to the ascent route, we arrive at our vehicle in the area of \u200b\u200bthe abandoned mine.
At 18, very relaxed, and comfortably in the seats of our van, we began the descent into San Antonio de los Cobres.
We learned in great detail all the mountain activities of the day. And these are, broadly speaking, the results of different groups, as we faced the peaks of the promotion program of the Club
Tuzgle Volcano, 5,530 m of , the group arrived past 7 o'clock. Involving 28 civilians and 8 soldiers, accessing your top 27 climbers. For 6 of them was his baptism of high mountains.
At the summit of Pompeii, 4,100 m and the Velvet, 3.900m, 20 people participated, which crowned the summit. For 7 of them, meant his baptism in height. One of them, at Pompeii, was Juan Almaraz, son of William, who won his first four thousand.
then return to Salta. We deserved to celebrate with a dinner washed down with beer tenderloin black Salta.
He was a successful 25-year anniversary of fruitful and prolific work of the Club Janajman.
NEVADO Achaia
WGS 84 Datum
San Antonio de los Cobres -24,13.084, -66,18.854
Income from ROUTE ; -24,17.490, -66, 9108 ; 3965 m
MY,-queda camioneta- ; -24,24.477, -66,10.552 5028 m
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