Polaroid Spectra Instant Camera For Sale

Greetings, Early, Early, Farewells, Welcome ... Finally,




wanted to give something that meant something to them.

something I looked everywhere to express the joy I feel for you, more than any I remember how much material explains this step means that the two have just begun.

is therefore present them all in this life that I cherish with all my heart and that is not material.

The beautiful wife, two ideas I have in mind :

Be patient.
Sometimes the man makes the stupidest mistakes
simply because the obvious is never obvious friend
and man is famous for being obvious, but never obvious.

Everything we do,
for better or for worse,
should be looking solely from
happiness or feeling less
or feeling more.

Al always passionate husband, two simple comments

to the most beautiful rose chokes on excess
must love without forgetting that the excess of love often leads to indifference
Love without action
but measured and treasure what you love.

Always bear in mind that no matter what happens,
've already won more than they can earn
That you ever wanted,
and next to you has to be.

I can not find another way to express the joy I would say that there are other ways, I would say that there are other times, but the reality is simple, every moment full of happiness we must be lived the maximum.

never know what turns life gives us ...

If You Have A Fracture Femur Can You Have A Baby

LANIN

DIAMOND LAKE - Coming Home

Maipo volcano

Maipo Volcano

The beauty of the mountains surrounding the Laguna del Diamante, among which stands majestically Maipo Volcano, together with the blue mirror of water, are a sight to be known and admired. Especially when the volcano is reflected in the lagoon. Guanacos, red foxes, and condors, ma'am its presence in the area. Despite having no indigenous fish the lagoon was planted with trout, many years ago, being a major sport fishing activity in the summer.


surround the lagoon environment important stories that are revived when a strong wind blowing sleet and white tinged landscape.
The June, 1930, when, having left from the airfield in Colina, Chile, crossing the Andes with mail, by a snowstorm Henri Guillaumet's plane has to make a forced landing near the lagoon. During the same roof, saving the life miraculously. Digging a well takes refuge under the canopy of the device and surrounded by the postal bags, holding a cold standby for two days. Then walk up the mountain and after 5 days comes close to a hut where he sees Juan Gualberto Garcia, 14, who assists with his mother. Is then retrieved by his friend Saint-Exupéry.

After the tragedy of August 1953, when the Army conducted exercises in the area, with the support of scouts there. Having left the shelter Cruz de Piedra a contingent of 35 soldiers for the recognition of the passage north of Alvarado-Maipo volcano slopes and run practices, they are caught in a storm. They are divided into groups trying to return and the last consisting of 4 people were killed by freezing. Also another 4, which awaited its arrival, also died. The bulk of the contingent that awaited them, go ahead and lost during the following days, whipped by the and snow storm, 14 people.


Expedition conducted from 15 to 17 February 2007.

Position and Altitude
The estimated position is: S 34 ° or 69 ° 09,500 and 50,000. The height of 5,323 meters above sea level Volcano
Its name derives from the word Araucanian Mapuche more precisely, "Mapu" meaning "Indian Territory" Access


Natural Reserve Laguna del Diamante, is located in the Department of San Carlos, about 200 km meaningful distance southwest of the capital of Mendoza. It can be accessed by Route 40, coming after overcoming a Pareditas Tunuyán (S33 ° 57.083 -O69 ° 04.065; 1,097 m), where the asphalt ends. It may proceed through two routes consolidated, continued 40 or 101, up to the approximate position (S34-O69 ° 12.337 ° 07.228; 1,530 m), where you have to forward, for good track, in a West, towards the area of \u200b\u200bthe lagoon.

Members of the expedition
Jaime Suarez. Ariel Sergio Mercado and Carlos Rodríguez Lastra.

Times best promotion
Natural Reserve Laguna del Diamante is usually operable, depending on the year and snow, from December 15 until March 30. It should always consult the Department of Natural Resources of the Province of Mendoza and / or National Gendarmerie Tunuyan Mza. Difficulty


High mountain. Previous experience in mountain and knowledge of techniques for advancing glaciers. Some expeditions then attempt Aconcagua, often ascending to achieve acclimatization. Introduction



Maipo Volcano, which is border with Chile, and the Laguna del Diamante, are within the Natural Protected Area Laguna del Diamante, Department of San Carlos, Province of Mendoza. This nature reserve of nearly 13,000 ha, is controlled by park rangers must therefore be the registrations for both the input and the output in the area. Actions such as driving on the road or main track, lower waste and not disturb or remove animals flora, which are already in good climbers habit, are controlled by park rangers.
In the Laguna del Diamante, a large natural water reservoir, Diamond River rises then with contributions from other tributaries from nearby peaks, reaches the reservoir Reyunos passes through San Rafael and Monte Coman, Mendoza to the limit.


normal expedition

An expedition, under normal conditions of acclimatization and weather, you can move in 5 days. Starting from the city of Mendoza, in the 747 meters, you arrive on the day the National Gendarmerie sector at the base of the volcano Maipo, S34 ° 11'473 - 42'203 O69 °, 3,312 m. The second day is a party to camp on the 3,800 m. The third to the camp two from the 4.200/4.400 m On the fourth attempt the summit and return to camp 2. The fifth day he returned to Mendoza. Usually left for another day for acclimatization in the area of \u200b\u200bthe lagoon.

Sometimes an issue is characterized as successful or not. With all the nuances that both situations are. But this, for we had to endure the storm and several days to avoid being stranded in the mountains, is characterized by the return. It was the main objective of the expedition.
were 12 hours from 14.30 until after 2 in the morning it takes to travel the 36 miles that separate the Laguna del Diamante Alvarado Post. It was hard work getting the snow that blocked the road with shovels and hand.

Our expedition would not be normal
We had come from Mendoza on 15 February by a group of Catamarca, a Buenos Aires and Mendoza, ready to face the ascent to the volcano Maipo. Upon reaching Pareditas (S33-O69 ° 57.083 ° 04.065, 1097 m) directly face then consolidated Route 40 until you reach the bypass (S34-O69 ° 12.337 ° 07.228; 1,530 m) would lead us to the mountain area. It remains about 25 km. to reach the Refugio Alvarado, (S34-O69 ° 14.742 ° 22.930; 2,300 m) where the group of park rangers who made the annotations into the reserve. After the formalities, including payment of $ 10 for admission and receive an empty bag for trash, per person, which should return full, began a march of almost 36 kilometers. We went through the shelter G. Stone Cross National Yaucha the plains of the Pampa and the Paramillos, reaching the 15-hour checkpoint park rangers near the cylinder, in the vicinity of the lagoon (S34-O69 ° 10.722 ° 39.301, 3383 m.) . Presentations rigor and continued our march along the water surface, to the south where he crossed the bridge over the river Diamond birth, got to the shelter of the National Gendarmerie (S34-O69 ° 11.473 ° 42.203, 3,312 m). Also we stand and ask permission to put up our tent nearby. Base Camp


We put our store large base ready to enjoy all possible comforts, including enjoying a good hot meal, and sleep well padded as we expect a sharp rise the next day. But we do not have the elements. Soon he began to finish the sky and snow covered lot. He did all night, Despite our pleas to cease. And continued over breakfast the next day. Our tent and truck were covered by a thick layer of snow. It was a time and under such conditions was not advisable to address any promotion. By midmorning, while the snowstorm, an unexpected visitor appeared and friendly, Luney, a Guanaquitas that haunted the refuge and whose mother had been hunted by a cougar. Repeatedly entered his head through our door to bite a biscuit or piece of fruit.

After lunch we began a strong wind shook the snow white of our tent and little desire to continue the climb that some of us still hiding. Through the windows could not see any image from a few meters away. When stopped, a layer of nearly forty inches covered the adjacent land. Gendarmerie invited us to spend the night with them and enjoy the fireplace they had. We accept most grateful. It was nice to chat with these dedicated men who care for the country's borders. Snow continued overnight. Return


laborious
the morning of Saturday 17 appeared with some clear blue sky, but with all the western sector of the sky covered by the storm.

would start now our new goal: to return and not be stranded for several days. Break camp, load our equipment on the vehicle and move to the nearby post of the park rangers. It was perhaps time to leave, and although we had a great team, food, fuel and water, a single vehicle was not advisable to try it. The area Paramillos to 3,700 meters should still be much worse for transit, for the snow, so we were on the lookout for news.
few minutes later saw two vehicles, one 4x4 and a box 608, a family of veteran fishermen, also with the idea of \u200b\u200bleaving the area. We set up the caravan and resolutely and past the 14 hours, we started the return. In the first sections patches of snow were long but not very deep. With several thrusts were overcome, leaving a footprint that vehicles could travel further. But then we had to put shovels, taking turns at work and panting with the effort in height, to enable patches that reached almost the underground in some places.

were countless times side by side, put the steel cable forward or backward by any of the vehicles to overcome the difficulty. Also we had to push that got stuck. But there was no turning back. After twelve hours of effort by all members of the group, we arrive well after 2 am, the shelter Alvarado. Just a little before it, the traffic could be considered almost normal. Twelve hours of working relentlessly to make a journey of 36 miles.
But it was worth. Be four or five days trapped in the snow is not pleasant. Effusively and celebrating the feat we salute at parting on leaving the post, but during the return, due to the constant concern to the next difficulty, fatigue and stress suffered, unfortunately forgot to give us the names with the crew of the other two vehicles . And surely one day we will cross to know us better, because the idea is back. LAGUNA

WP Southwest
DIAMOND

Tunuyán height (Mza.) 33 ° 34'308 69 ° 02'092
San Carlos 33 ° 45 ° 170 69 ° 04'418
Pareditas, entry 33 ° 57'083 69 ° 04'065 1,097 m Laguna
Entry w / Route 40 34 ° 12 337 1530 m 69 ° 07'228 Ref
Guard. General Alvarado 34 ° 14'742 69 ° 22 930 2300 m
Stone Cross Ref GN 34 ° 14'865 69 ° 27'867
Refugio 3,071 m GP Cylinder - 34 ° 10'722 69 ° 39'301 GN 3383 m Refuge
Lag. Diamond 34 ° 11'473 69 ° 42'203 3,312 m

Jaime Suárez

Antique Markets In France

BARE HILL

Cerro Pelado, seen from the top of Lomas Blancas in Vallecitos, 30 km away

BARE HILL

El Cerro Pelado, with its 3,460 meters high, is the highest mountain in the foothills of Mendoza. Available online line about 30 kilometers from the city of Mendoza, in the position S32 º 46 `873 'and` O69 # 07 044 ". Easy access allows for a good footprint at near reach base, which may include a tall vehicle, or 4x4 and also because, mountain biking or walking.

SEVENTY YEARS IS NOTHING ...
climbing
Many institutions born during the last century as a result of the purest and romantic era of Argentine and world mountaineering. It was important, for example, for the formation of the Andean Club Mendoza expedition's exploits of Poles on 18 January 1934 climbed the Mercedario, then Ramada, Alma Negra and La Mesa and on 8 March, the Aconcagua by the glacier that gave name. The first and a landmark was the Club Andino Bariloche in 1931 began as an institution in the mountains. Then in 1935 the Club Andinista Mendoza. Climbing clubs were instrumental in the development of this activity and the dissemination of knowledge of the mountains and remote mountainous country boundaries. But he was back this time of myth and magic. The legends, little by little, they are forgotten by the newer and more modern daily exploits. Amen to that, the context in which the mountain is moving today is composed of continuous and rapid changes that transcend the sport and is directed, among other things, labor, economic, technological, problems of private ownership of the mountain and consequently also to a legal reality of slow development. Faced with the new times, the climbers are in crisis and, more than ever, changes are needed to close ranks around montaña.El organizations last April 12, 2005 Andinista Mendoza Club turned 70 years old , the Mountain Association of Catamarca Calchaquí turned 50 on July 9 and next year will be 75 years of existence, the Club Andino Bariloche. Many other mountain clubs are also passed several decades. But can we say that our institutions of mountain are more vital today than yesterday? Most do, but others simply birthday face a more complex society, forgetting improve their management. Yet as we saw, our clubs have been around for years to ensure the expansion of mountain activities. But it is necessary to create new projects as ambitious as possible, according to the new century started and also form an association that truly represents them and link to mundo.Un little history: In the 25th and 26th May 1935 and only opened, the enthusiastic members of the Club "Climber" Mendoza (as then and until 1942 was called) in a tribute to Independence Day, decide to make an expedition to the Cerro Pelado, in the foothills of Mendoza. Vehicle moving at 15 kilometers to reach the hill of Las Chilcas, then continue on foot, carrying the mule teams, reaching the Agua Colorada, where bivouac. The next day start at seven in the morning for the summit, arriving amid a strong wind, at half past nine. With great emotion, in the midst of solitude, grandeur and majesty of the Andean peaks, it was waving the national flag and sang the national anthem. A historical picture, reproduced and then the descent. A lunch and return back to Mendoza.

Andinista Mendoza Club Expedition to Cerro Pelado 3,460 m. May 1935.

Evoking the feat

In commemoration of the recently completed seventy years of life, officials and members of the Club Andino Mendoza, decided to repeat the ascent to Cerro Pelado by organizing an expedition for that purpose. The idea is well received by members and supporters.

We start the day

and April 17 at 8 pm from the head office, a motley group of young, adult and old climbers. We were accompanied by members of the Rescue Patrol Police of Mendoza, the National Guard, Army and special guests. From 750 meters from the city of Mendoza, a caravan of 18 vehicles that moved 130 enthusiastic people moved to the top of the foothills of Mendoza. It crossed the Municipal Barrio Las Heras and soon after arrived at the post The Chilcas 32 ° 47'721 68 ° 58'069 1,354 meters in altitude, where the convoy regrouped. A little later, after a sharp rise by snails, we agreed to 1 monolith, which rises to 2,024 meters in position 32 º and 69 º 00'339 48'222. Was used to another break and to wait for the vehicles behind. Continued meetings greetings comrades for a long time and were not to take photographs. Continued, surpassing the 2,142 meters the Post House in position 32 º 47'349 and 69 ° 01'290, and passing dry riverbeds and canyons, the 3,094 meters another break to reach 2 º monolith in position 32 º 45'178 and 69 ° 05956 . We had traveled 36 kilometers by road from Mendoza.

After a cresteo by a thin trail of two miles over hills that gave us quick access to position 32 º and 69 º 06'679 46'071 to 3,171 meters. This site uses a sufficiently flat surface, neatly parked vehicles at the breathtaking view from the summit of Bald. It rose by 290 feet above our level just a mile away.

Cerro Pelado - Mendoza

greetings were completed, the matches and then clusters to begin the final ascent. Soon it began in a long single file, a colorful, uneven, but enthusiastic group. Another child, including older veterans, she was preparing food for the return. As we walked we could not stop thinking about the convenience of having our vehicles a short distance, while for seventy years, the founders of the club, even with the help of mules, had to walk more than 14 miles from the truck that transported them.

approach to first start a gentle descent and then back up and become a first stop for the 3,164 meters in 32 º and 69 º 06'973 46'351. The day allowed us to reason with the wonderful eyes precordilera and mountain environment. To the west, despite being 85 km away, stood out among all cords sticking out of the range the majestic image of Aconcagua. Jaime suarez

Aconcagua, could be seen of the Colossus of America, in the clearness of the day, the south wall and the profile of the Polish Glacier. Jaime suarez

But we had to follow. It continued a pleasant climb to a second stop at the 3,288 meters in 32 º and 69 º 07'068 46'607. Was used to look more closely at the stunning beauty of the sea de montañas que totalmente nos rodeaba. Hacia el norte se podía ver el blanco perfil del Mercedario del que nos separaban 130 kilómetros. Y hacia el sur, a sólo 40 km. las cúspides de el Rincón y el Vallecitos y descollando tras ellos, los seis mil metros de El Plata. Más adelante se fue haciendo más empinada la subida hasta que por fin, bajo un radiante sol y luego de poco más de una hora desde la partida, a las 13 horas se reunió todo el grupo en la cumbre del Cerro Pelado. A los 3.461 metros y en torno a los hitos de la cumbre, nos fuimos acomodando uno a uno, varias decenas de andinistas.

Cerro Pelado

Nuevamente y tras setenta años was waving the flag , the anthem was sung again and after him, "Happy Birthday." Then, to regain strength, a quick lunch consisting of a sandwich, piece of cake or fruit, resulting from what each had in his backpack. At 14 began the descent into the 3,170 meters high, where they left off the motor. There we were expecting a hot locro and good wines for a celebration that we all just started. At dessert the inevitable speeches, under the gentle flight of two curious condors surprised to see broken the stillness and silence of the mountains. At 16 hours began to return to Mendoza. God will tell if within seven decades, the future members of our institution will repeat this event. I hope so.

Mendoza, ....... -32.53,671 -68.49,380 - 750 m

HOME, -32.50,794 -68.51,669 - 761 m BARRIO

-32.50,820 -68.52,249

788 m -32.49 ROUTE 1, 262 815 m

-68.52,729

THE -32.47,721 CHILCA -68.58,070

1354 m 1, m 2024 MONOLITH -69.00,340 -32.48,223

Since STONE House -32.47,349 -69.01 , 291 2,142 m

-32.47,455 -69.02,279 ROUTE 2235 ROUTE m

-32.45,417 -69.03,179

2566 m ROUTE

-32.44,971 -69.04,108 2688 m2 ª

-32.45,179 -69.05,956 MONOLITH 3094 m

AUTOS -32.46,071 -69.06,679 Camp 3171 m

rise

1 º PARADA -32.46 , 351 -69.06,974

3164 m 2 º STOP 3288 m ascent -32.46,607 -69.07,068

-69.07,044 Summit 3461 m PEEL -32.46,873

Jaime Suárez

Remove Mould From Softball Glove

COTOPAXI







Cotopaxi Descending

COTOPAXI
-Ecuador-
5,897 m



REPORT OF THE ISSUANCE OF SUMMIT


By Jaime Suárez

The high Andes of Ecuador through the Republic of south north, two distinct branches which are named after the Cordillera Central and Cordillera Occidental, a small branch to the east that takes its name from Eastern.
also appreciate the tour of the Cordillera de Los Andes in this country, two distinct sections: the south elevations of little height, rounded and belonging to a time much older than the north, where recent volcanic ridge has given a different look and monumental, being there where the main peaks in Ecuador, as the Cayambe 5,790 m, 5,704 Antisana, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua 5087 and most of all, Chimborazo , with a height of 6,310 meters. Ecuadorian
Mountaineering Federation had organized an expedition to climb Cotopaxi, for members of the Pan American Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing that visited the country on the occasion of the VI Ordinary General Assembly (May 1994). This beautiful volcano of nearly six thousand feet is allowed dominion with its silhouette on the city of Quito with a breathtaking beauty and challenge. Thus, from the early days of our stay in this beautiful city, with undisguised look of admiration, we could not stop to contemplate where we could, hoping the time came that we might begin to climb.
Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, whose name means Cayapa language, "sweet neck from the sun" (reserve, neck Pagter: sun shi: sweet) and the ancient language was called Panzaleo "throat of fire." Although, historically known several eruptions, at present, volcanic activity has been reduced to a continuous emission of sulfur gases and water vapor in the fumaroles. This volcano is surrounded by the Cotopaxi National Park, which is one of the most beautiful ecological reserves in South America, with a unique and very thoughtful landscaping.
was conquered the first time in November l872 and today (1994) will reach its peak starting from the shelter Joseph F. Ribas which is 4,800 meters above sea level, which is open all year, with guards.
On May 28 we left early from Quito, to the recreational area "the joint" region bordering beautiful Cotopaxi National Park, with a careful tourist infrastructure and where they had set up a national camp consists of mountain climbing all mountaineering clubs in Ecuador and some of the countries involved in the event and participate in a friendly match. Later, two army trucks head towards the Cotopaxi Ecuador, more precisely to the José Ribas refuge.
Our vehicles arrived by a passable road to nearly 4,600 meters high from where we had to walk up in the middle of a very fine snow that accompanied us to the 4,800 meters in which there is a shelter. The 24 berths has been completely filled and insufficient for the number of climbers would try the top, so we proceeded to throw our neoprenes where there was space and after a light mid-afternoon, dinner and a "congresillo"-so called-Ecuadorians to 18 hours, where he explained some technical details and interest on the rise, particularly the indication that the game would be roped in three or four people who were leaving with brief periods of time, so do not bother, from 1 am. In these mountains, the large number of cracks in the glaciers, the morning is the best time to climb on snow, so it is more difficult and dangerous during the hours of light.
After the congress, we hit a sleeping urgent. Immediately we dressed in our bags to take advantage of the biggest and best rest possible. We had very little time for it, after a hectic and "travel" day.
lasted little quiet. After 24 hours, the nervous movements began rising to a height equipment, which inevitably included crampons. The darkness helped to impede the exit, but before one was already starting the first climber.
With Jordan, we did not ring. Soon he left our group in the light of a bright full moon that showed black cracks and crevices at the bottom of which seemed to take the light of our headlamps. There were large blocks of ice everywhere to cast long shadows, but all this magnificence irresistible. As we climbed lights were visible from Quito to the north and south the black silhouette of Chimborazo. No words were heard. Each step, each beat of our crampons, the ice and snow, was to break a spell. Jordan marked the times and the rise and almost without realizing it, though tired, we were arriving at 6 am to the summit of Cotopaxi. Jaime Suarez

Chimborazo; crater at the summit scenes with Jordi Pons, and return

We delayed five hours leapfrog the 1,100 meters separating the shelter of the summit, and view the magnificent gift that we gave, after the hard climb was more than enough reward. An awesome crater about 800 meters in diameter as the cone summit and we were in an upper lip of it. A little closer to him and trying to look inside look at a depth of 300 meters.
The sun was out, had begun to illuminate the Chimborazo, while the enlightened view of Quito was disappearing in the mist of dawn.


started after the inevitable photos and footage, the descent. We were crossing and giving encouragement to the different cordate amounting slowly, forming interrupted caravan of climbers. It was very strong that day the spirit of the summit. All arrive.
The day could not be better. The indelible memory of the ascent, and would be extended to the succulent and tasty Ecuadorian lunch that included corn and waiting for us in "Bowling"




Mendoza, July 1994 .- Jaime Suárez

Alabama Football Number 12

Changes Between Us And silence falls, as the shadows steals the light ...


When I try to write exactly what I think or try to express exactly what I mean, I usually say terrible things they do indeed do more harm than what they really mean.

why I am usually very careful what I say.

Or vice versa, when I want people to Arreche me, I get "raw."

Any person who has a bit of healing in your mind may be thinking: What the hell I want to annoy people? If you usually all the guides of emotional intelligence, people management and the majority of psychologists in the world speak of the effectiveness of assertiveness, I come and use assertiveness as a weapon.

My response, besides simple, has a rather interesting way: To generate a reactive effect contrary to my views.

I descuebierto something interesting: People have opinions, people are not. What I mean is that when there is an individual opinion, man by nature tends to accept or reject it, the more the masses in general tend to follow the behavior of the individual, in other words, people seem more of a flock that is led by those who believe.

And personally it takes me out of my boxes.

In my work I have to propose ideas usually completely crazy, always having to consider many viewpoints and perspectives, always looking for common points and analyzing the conditions for a solution that meets the needs of all. But when I propose an idea and nobody believes me frustrated.

frustrates me the only person who sees the problem in all its completeness, it frustrates me that people are very accommodating and I tend to be very detail, to see the bad side of things, to be critical at all. And I would like everyone to be critical me. The problem is that most of the time they are not, because given my personal skills, there are times that I follow blindly.

not get me wrong, I like my views are taken into account and I have an important weight in decision-making, but we really prefer that all the guidance in the decisions that I only phone and other follow me blindly.

So sack people from their boxes. I do react, and even when I tell them I'm going to go crazy, can not help it.

almost a year ago, talking with some friends, I told them clearly that would bother. Knowing beliefs and values, intentionally used a very valid arguments about the meaning of "assertiveness." For me, assertiveness is to give a message so that it is aware of the other's response, and moreover, to have that effective response to the parties to understand. For the rest of the known world, assertiveness should always be positive. If you notice, the fundamental difference is that I use assertiveness to generate the desired effect, be the "good" or "right." Obviously, chaos erupted in the conversation, but my friends, even though he was making direct use of assertiveness to create chaos, never agreed with me.

I'm not saying is right, but it is too interesting to see how a well-formed message can get a desired effect.

That's why I have to induce chaos most of the time in my work, to generate a reaction and avoid herd behavior.

Anyway, this may be a bit of noise to see if this genre a little fun and always necessary controversy ...

Do Chest Tattoos Stretch

VOLCANOES IN GUATEMALA

Pacaya and Acatenango
by Jaime Suárez (conducted promotions in 1995)

PACAYA 2,552 m

Pacaya volcano from 2,552 meters high in the department of Guatemala very close to the capital. It is a volcanic complex on which stand two cones, one active.
This has remained constant activity over the past 25 years and occurred during our stay and climb up the same that motivated to be declared on alert.

On June 3, 1995 we from the capital of Guatemala, to the summit of Pacaya, a group formed by members of the National Mountaineering Federation of Guatemala, the English Federation of Mountain Sports and Climbing, Mountaineering Federation of Chile, then-Mayor Joseph H. Hernández of the Argentine Army and myself. We went on a bus of the Mountaineering Federation of Guatemala to the south and then over 35 kilometers of dirt roads through the village we came to San Francisco de Sales, located on the northwest side of the volcano, which was the vehicle. The volcano is named after the nearby town of San Vicente Pacaya. The Pacaya is an edible palm heart (your name comes from the Quiche) that abounded in the region.

From the town where we arrived-in which you could see some nervousness-arrhythmic observe the eruption of the volcano, which emitted from active cone constant eruptions and incandescent rocks, which soon covered a large segment of its skirt, A red lights went to black after steaming.
We start from the village and after an hour through a dense jungle area, we reached the place called "the plateau" in one part a little flatter. Above it there is a site called "monument" that is usually seen more eruptions. Looking towards the bottom this place, to your sides, you could see a long profile, bare of vegetation in some cases and in others, flora destroyed by the action of volcanic heat in its wake. From "monument" We continue to access the top edge of the cone standing "not active" to call it somehow. We stand there and slag remains mixed in the sand and rocks, which together with remains of lava off our ascent difficult, so just after half an hour we could reach the summit.
We were at an altitude of 2,552 meters, at the top of the cone inactive in these circumstances twin active crater is on your side. The eruption in a time of their eruptions term "operator" down dramatically high, which is slowly recovering after the erupted material eventually stain, which makes it inch by inch back up.
fumarolic activity is strong, consistent and explosive, with incandescent slag release to great heights to fall on the crater or nearby.

Pacaya Volcano

As we watch and we photographed all this activity and natural beauty we are forced, by accelerating and increased strength of the eruptive process to descend urgently. The Pacaya, one of its humps erupciónHabía begun to fall in igneous material, stones and ash very close to us. We face the most direct way down moving away from the lines of fire emanating from the volcano. Our headlamps nervous traced zigzags between the remains of slag and burnt logs and still erect, until finally reaching the forest and the people. But now only accompanied by the sounds of the eruptions of Pacaya. Some equipment was on the road, but nobody said anything. It was lucky no scratches have come from this adventure. It was a very talked back and almost no jokes.

Acatenango
3,975 m
Located between the departments of Chimaltenango and Sacatepequez, near Antigua Guatemala. Also consists of two peaks, the southern peak being the main summit 3,975 meters, while the northern peak, called Yepocapa or Tres Marias, is 3,800 meters. It is the third volcano in Guatemala for their height.
The same group and entities that go up the Pacaya, left again on June 5 from the capital of Guatemala, on the Panamerican Highway to the West, to Antigua, then following to the small town of Soledad, which is far about 70 km. starting point.
This volcano is visible on clear days from the capital and is one of the most beautiful in this country Central. Is in her skirts crops of corn, beans, peas and begins as you ascend the tropical forest includes pine, as is becoming a mountain cold and wet.



for nearly an hour went through several corn plantations which prevailed and were reclaimed from the forest areas, which soon found. Cross it was a time consuming task as it walked along a narrow path which was sometimes covered by vegetation. We finally arrived, two hours later, a natural plateau surrounded by pine trees where the lateness of the evening became the ideal place for armed camp. This site is known as "El Conejo".
spend the night with some other drawback is irrelevant to this story.
The next morning, very early, we began the ascent to the summit. Continued through the forest for over an hour and a half, until they began to appear clear in the vegetation that gave us the indication that it would soon disappear. Half an hour later and volcanic sand stomping and reached the first summit, Yepocapa, with its 3,800 meters, where we could see from his cross the summit and looking at the target, stunning craters that lie at the foot of the main summit Acatenango . That

cone, amazing view, was covered by material thrown Fuego volcano neighbor. Towards the main summit we are going, going, just down a bit the first summit, with a refuge from the Federation of Guatemala.
In 40 minutes we overcome the 176 meters height difference and the approximate mile distance that separated us from the goal, reaching the summit cross Acatenango.

The view from there was impressive, can be seen most of the volcanic chain, including the peaks that shares a border with Mexico, also the volcano Fuego and Pacaya previously promoted.
The summit crater is seen as a shed, probably by the neighbor Fire, called "The Gap". After spending much time at the summit, we descended around the craters and three hours later we were on the dirt road you come expecting the micro Mountaineering Federation for us.
remained, at least we Argentineans, a whole new and unique concept in terms of climbing, we had not imagined continue, despite having agreed to summits in Mexico and Ecuador. In the mountains between 3,000 and 4,000 meters, had gone from green fields to cultivated areas,
get through thick, pristine tropical forest with all its characteristic flora and fauna, then settling land volcanic difficult ascent, until finally reaching summits craters fumes and are sometimes very dangerous situations by the eruptions.
important thing was knowing that every inch you go up in an American country is a step towards the integration of our continent and a value in our environment in the struggle for environmental protection.


If you go to Guatemala ... Do not forget to go to Tikal!

Letter Asking For Wedding Contributions

Huayna Potosi

Huayna Potosi - Bolivia

Huayna Potosi 6088 m

by Jaime Suárez

It was May 1996 and were in Bolivia Andinista Mendoza Club members, along with several friends from American federations and the English mountains.

La Paz - Bolivia. Foto Luis Mut

We

, although the altitude of La Paz 3650 m, had achieved an acclimatization climb the hills Chacaltaya 5300 m, where there is a beautiful and high ski slope, with increasing less glacier-and La Paloma (5390 m).
next day we would leave early, in an ancient micro, to tackle the climb to Huayna Potosi (in Aymara means young mountain) in an expedition that would require us two days. I had heard another definition would mean thundering young, perhaps in Quechua.
We arrived at the shelter at the base of Huayna Potosi, next to a beautiful lake thaw, where we received the Bolivian friend and a great climber, Hugo Berrios.
Soon after the usual indications, we start in a row weary India, crested a path to the edge of glaciers, and then over them, to which would be our first camp in Campo Argentino to 5,200 meters.
we set up our tents there. And prepare food and drinks to recharge. After a restful night's sleep, we left at dawn the next day, with the headlamps on, to tackle the summit. Gradually we became high. Overcome two steps a bit delicate after a long transit that surrounded some deep hollows in the ice, some of which showed overlapping layers and layers of ice in many past years, after five hours, and always on snow, using ropes and crampons, Many times, we reached the top.

Huayna Potosi climb ...


There were some faces dissatisfied to see that there was "little" over ice into a sector higher. A long, narrow ledge projecting the summit into a sector of absolute vacuum. Do not hesitate to address it. Under the musical sound of our picks stuck, and screams in providing security to the rope, we reached the point where it could not continue to lower the fine ridge of ice to the opposite side.
The view of mountains in the 360 \u200b\u200b° and distant snowy mountains, was total. The passage of an airplane propeller in the valley, 5,000 meters high and from which we watched the roof, he continued to give us an idea of \u200b\u200bthe magnitude of height at which we were.
We were at the summit of Huayna Potosi, its 6,088 meters, but the hugs would be to return to the previous sector, a bit safer in terms of space. So we did with John, Joan, Tato, Daniel and several comrades.

Huayna Potosi Summit 6.o88 m - 1996

now back with as much care as the ascent.
do I want to know today, 12 years later, the state of the whole mass of ice and snow ridge! We're melting our beautiful planet!

Regret taken a few photos, but if I made a video of the whole ascent. Are more comments on it.

Jaime Suárez

Aveeno Baby Eczema Cream

THE EYES OF THE CONDOR





NEVADO VOLCANO THE CONDOR

clear objective


were still in my mind pleasant memories of the summit of San Francisco in April 2006, where I successfully repeated the same picture that brought the Inca Huasi Walter Penck in 1913, and then, after filling the summit book and only pressure from a soft, but pretty cool wind, seen looking towards the north and 34 kilometers away Nevado Condor flourished with its 6,400 m, studded with its beautiful peaks of some glaciers, and in the same direction, clockwise, Peinado volcano of 5,741 meters, about 36 km. away. Two volcanoes with very different profiles defined hidden to the normal view of those who cross the mountain, unless you climb a nearby peak. Mountains from which there is very little information and I set in my mind as a next target.
In November 2007 I called my partner of several peaks, Hans Siebenhaar, saying:
- Are you interested in going to Condor? I have WP and Alexander Von Gotz data and Henri Barret!. I answered yes immediately. The proposal came in handy. Alexander both had shared with the expedition to the General Belgrano and vouchers we had crossed many peaks of the Andes, the data deserve our trust.
soon discuss the issue, we trace the ascent schedule and set the release date for the January 19, 2008. The goal had been established.

Heading:

Departing from Mendoza loaded into our vehicles, apart from mountain equipment, a double set of wheels, an extra 20 liter of diesel and another containing kerosene for use as fuel antifreeze. We considered that the trucks would be about 4,800 meters high and the potential for freezing of liquids were very high. Long Pasture



After 10 hours of driving and have been attached to the expedition Fiambala, Magguy and Lis, the directors of mountain museum "The six thousand, with all its equipment including high containers with water, we arrive at sunset to long grass, to Las Coipa, which enters into the West to access Pissis. They would stay that night. Acclimate
the first night on the 3,100 meters is always very convenient. This old and rather destroyed shelter, which served both in the past when cattle are moved to Chile, is very neglected and is used by fishermen, mostly poachers. It had rained hard the previous week and the state of the building was crumbling. We prefer as in previous expeditions set up the tents.



Caves On Sunday 20 to 10 hours after breakfast, we set out to Las Grutas. There, about 4,000 meters would take advantage of two nights to acclimatize. Upon arrival and see silhouetted against the blue sky silhouettes snowfall Inca Huasi and San Francisco, I could not take flight unless the memories: The first time I was on this site was in 1991 moving through long sandy tracks and where many Sometimes we left the vehicle. Took a day access from Tinogasta. Get there and admire the mountains first became an indelible memory. That night bivouacked in a hollow beside a road construction emerging. All very lonely and that was just taken the place both by gendarmerie as provincial roads in mid-November. But as things change!. Today, over the years, you come to Las Grutas in a few hours and there are many climbers and expeditions across national and international overnight to acclimatize in the strategic and comfortable shelter that has Road. And no surprise appreciated as construction continues to grow around, but also can be viewed as no surprise to your existing access is almost impossible, I could never speak, for one reason or another, which is a shame. We

access controls Gendarmerie, make up the peculiar document which appears to be a liability waiver and understand not finished yet, despite having signed a lot more than a dozen times and have experience in ransoms. Once again we settled into the bunker, shelter for a very reasonable price makes the DPV daily Catamarca available to travelers. Usually, if necessary, supply of fuel. After a late lunch at 4,000 feet and then, jokingly, we settled with several more climbers in the comfortable mattresses with berths for a restorative nap. Before dinner we coordinate the objectives for the next day. That afternoon
climb back from San Francisco, in a English expedition, and Cristina Muñoz Mariano Pampillon, along with Omar, all of them old friends from past expeditions and ascents. It was very pleasant to remember the past.
Before the night to take the opportunity to pour gallons of diesel we figured we had in our tanks, 10% of kerosene. It was the best way to protect the fuel from the low temperatures we would have from that night.
The next day, Monday 21 July, took the opportunity to achieve acclimatization. The rest of the group dared to rise to false Morocho and I inspect the ancient Indian ruins in the area and the new building of the nearby hot springs.



towards the objective area of \u200b\u200bthe Andes where we were heading is studded by numerous volcanoes that characterize a particular geography. Some prowling the 6,500 meter high snow-covered peaks and glaciers, others less than 6,000 of strange beauty and sharp conical casting slag. Volcanic ash and contributions of all of them formed large tolerable horizontal drops that freight forwarders, and where there are large salt flats inexorably, salinas, salt lakes and hot springs.
We went to El Condor on Tuesday 22 at 10.15 hours, saying goodbye to our old and new friends. After passing through a 14 km asphalt. from Las Grutas, we reach the point S26 ° ° 14'110 52'0152 and O68, wherein opposite to that place of entry is a traffic signal change, and from there on a marked trail began the march north. The sight of two cones and later look at the back of Bertrand, so different from that provided from Las Grutas, entertaining journey. Soon we began to admire the style and the Condor. The good track soon came to an abrupt and steep descent to the lakes only marked by isolated tracks covered. A decline that began at 13.30, which was not very complicated and 15 minutes later we were standing between them, at 4,000 meters, taking photographs. The Bitter, the largest in the north, is gray-brown and cyanide're saddled by past mining activities. Nevertheless it is appreciated more ceremonial flamingos gliding motion. The other, much smaller and turquoise is located southwest of the first, separated by the flat and not very wide terrace where we were arrested. But the size of the turquoise surface did not prevent it reflects the Condor, but dimly by the movement of water through the wind. Both outlining their perimeters with a thin strip of frost on its shores. A 7 km. in an east of this lake is the summit of Peinado and 18 km. westbound, the summit of El Condor.


Crossing in the middle of the lined lagoons to the Condor slightly marked by a trail that goes to the joint to return to the caves and to Antofagasta de la Sierra. Fourteen miles later, at position S26 ° O68 ° 18'875 35'034 and now nearly 4,400 feet started, leaving his imprint, direct entry to where would you set up base camp. Three miles and a half later and now on 4,800 meters high, introducing a wide opening that left two small cords mountain, looking for the best possible place and find it very soon in an area a little flatter and somewhat protected. Base Camp 120



Before 1 pm we had arrived at that would be our base camp. Just over two hours we needed to travel along a tolerable track just over 60 km. that separated us from Las Grutas. We were in position and O68 S26 ° 36'172 18'755 °, and the not inconsiderable height of 4,838 meters. And while this point we are closer to the summit, the vehicles were heavily exposed to extreme dawn low temperatures. We put the truck with the front towards the rocks and wrapped the fuel filter, some pipes and drums and pieces of insulated blanket. As well as crowning the summit, wanted to preserve the return.

would spend in the camp the night of arrival and the next day, so we set up a tent structure that would give us great comfort to acclimatize and sleep. In just over half an hour was up and habitable. The opened eating a delicious melon in it and making one for the day slip back from the summit.
The name of the "base camp 120" came out at night as a reflection of the two "somewhat" old members of the expedition, and was fairly easy baptism, only had to add both ages would have more shortly.
The next day, Wednesday 23 will be dedicated to study the route of ascent. Hans wanted to approach the base camp that Alex had more than 100 feet above, nearly 5,000 and which was using a gasoline engine vehicle. Also arrived in that little acclimatization ascent to the 5,150 meters in height, place at the beginning piedrerío that characterize the larger retail route. We returned to prepare the mountain team from next day we go with the escalation and in these nerve preparations soon we found the evening. We had dinner comfortably seated on stools, with good light and with an improvised and practice table. And amenities would be over after tomorrow.

Camp Alex - 1
high
On Thursday, 24 began the ascent itself. The aim would be to come to camp 1 used by Alexander who was above the 5,500 meters. Ahead would have a slope of more than 700 meters. We left after 9 and a half with all equipment, food for the day expedition and about 4 liters of water each and we did not know if we would find snow to melt. Also numbered my pack crampons, a can of peaches in syrup (when I was younger had two) and carp. It was a lot of weight for me and for that gap.
As we saw yesterday, about 5,150 meters began to stand in our way a carry stones as we ascended gradually increases in size proportionally inexorable. It was not easy in the sea of \u200b\u200brocks to find the precise route and we had to make continuous adjustments in the stone running tide. Past the 16 hours prior to a new and sharp slopes, studded with stones also quite a bad move by fatigue and the consequent inclination of the heavy backpack gave me a sharp pain muscle on the side, I began to accompany. A little further up Magguy moved the weight of the tent carrying his backpack. Luckily we soon found horizontal tongues coated with coarse sand.
was an ideal place for a camp and agreed to provide him with Alex WP Hans. After nearly 7 hours of heavy promotion that would give the name to our path, "path of martyrdom." I do not think it was for less, the combination of carry much weight, combined with continually work on stones conditioned us to put that name. The location of Camp 1, we would call "Alex" is S26 ° O68 ° 37'222 and 20'299 and 5,574 meters altitude. I think there best place around for a high camp. Come close flourished a group of penitents who allowed us to replace the worn out water and leave something for the return. We traveled in a drop of almost 750 meters 3,150 m. away. No separated about 850 meters to the summit and a distance of nearly 3 miles. It was a lot of work on a heavy field of promotion try to address the summit in one day. We planned our schedule a second camp that we would attack the day of the summit the chance to leave and return to the sun. Moving in the dark slopes such a group of several climbers can be very risky, as good flashlight to carry. After
set up the tents we devoured the four the "heavy" can of peaches in syrup. Rested a little tired, and then continue to eat more and are "mentally prepared" while we rest, for dinner about 20 hours and then sleep as they could. The mood of the group was great, and some out of tune songs that night were heard from the tent of women and men. Camp 2


high
On Friday 25, leaving some things to consider rationing excess weight and best food for the remaining days of the climb, we started with good sun, just after 10 am, in search of a second camp high. Flourished before us two sharp peaks, of course with plenty of big rocks. Left a gray and another to the right of brownish tone. Resolutely face gray and little by little, stone by stone were rising. It was extremely laborious but we pander the idea that there would be a long day, since the idea was to find a campsite for the 5,800 meters in height and no more. Nearly one in the afternoon, two hours after the game, there are two small places quite acceptable to make a camp 2 meters high, they needed very little leveling. The position and O68 S26 ° 37'441 ° 20'504 and 5,799 meters altitude. We did not think to find, but tents were separated by rocks, better place, then the next day it would corroborate. We had quite a few patches of snow stuck between the rocks nearby, and later we could get, but a little work, meltwater flowed between the rocks.
Camp 2 was a balcony where we admired the hairstyle and gaps, can also see the tent and trucks in the distance, and Alex campsite, which separated us just about 540 meters and only 225 meters. But we were much closer to the summit, approximately 2,500 feet away and just over 600 meters height difference. And the 5,800 still sleep well. Towards the summit



On Saturday January 26 was the day of summit. Early breakfast and dressed in sleeping bags. Then we proceeded to the slow process of loading clothes into the bag then a liter of water, food summit, the parka, waterproof pants, mittens and crampons. At last I could really feel my pack light. At 8 and a half in the morning close the tents, they would wait for our return, and departed. The beginning was tedious, especially when addressing to the right to enter the channel formed by the union of rock cords descending from higher areas.




We should very carefully and avoid losing height, reach a higher level from which it became a little more comfortable ascent. Finally started to step on snow. Nearly two hours later we continued on that channel to the left of which we had stepped snowy peaks to the end of which was the industry summit, and right hills that were losing importance as the amount outclassed their level.
At 11 and a half stop, and reached the 6,100 meters for a rest and get water and some fruit in the mouth. We soon spotted the snowy hill separating the southern and northern craters, main cusps of this great mountain. Hans, Alex following points resolutely faced north. To climb better and we had to put crampons on the glacier upstream zigzageos lining the top. Past 14 hours surpassed the 6,300 meters and finally 15 hours we met on the highest rock formation that jutted over 6,400 meters in the south of the north crater.
Broadly speaking, these two large sections of the summit, the north and south, are formed by lips around his sharp peaks but occluded craters. Although there on this mountain, distributed at lower levels, more craters. Carefully look worried and we had the height of the South, and we saw visually at the height of that hollábamos, as about 500 m away. He was very even throughout. If there are differences in height, would be a few meters. Were known the sulfur yellow spots on the side of access to it, in front of us. Jaime Suarez



The south summit of the volcano El Condor from "six thousand Museum"
Magguy and Lis
eagerly sought evidence to the greater height of the tower of rocks. Barrett knew that Henri had climbed both summits, the 1966, 2002, South and North which was also reached by photo-after I could see, "Alex Von Gotz with another German. Hans soon feel with shouts of joy, the girls had found proof of the issue of Glass and Bracali, January 2007, which indicated that would be directed also to the south summit. Put our proof that it was a piece of fabric with all our names. Our expedition was the fourth rise this sector of the Condor and to further differentiate the top of the other was christened the "Museum six thousand" in the effort to disseminate more effort than mountain activities, made our young companions. We read the GPS
reached this January 26, 2008 in the position summit and O68 S26 ° 37'558 21'833 °, the 6,430 meters. Southbound 20 kilometers Sulphur False, and the Inca Huasi 45 kilometers. To the southwest, 30 miles, was almost completely noticeable Laguna Verde, Chile, after which the eyes. Northbound clearly highlighted the snowy Antofalla profile to 130 kilometers away. And so we continue to delight us with the unique landscape that provides a summit, while joyfully exchanged comments and some were talking to ourselves.

Back ...

had been about seven hours of laborious ascent to reach the summit, and we had to return. Forty minutes after we started reached return, retracing the footprints left first, and the memory of the big stones and benchmarks later. At 20.30 we were opening the tent waiting for us in camp 2. Were 12 hours of continuous activity and emotions. It was for a hot tea, a meal to recover energy and a good rest.
The next day, Monday 27, without any trouble and after disarming the camp, we left base camp 120. We had a drop of almost 1,000 meters and a distance between us just over 3 and a half miles. We expect a mature and fragrant melon and four cans of beer to celebrate, but also disarm the tent and the intrigue of being able to start vehicles after spending several nights with temperatures below zero.
And then return, due to Antofagasta de la Sierra. But that's another long story. Jaime Suárez



January 2008



expedition from 19 to 30 January 2008.
Summit Date: January 26, 2008.
SHEET RISE:
Nevado THE CONDOR (Catamarca - Argentina)
6,430 m. GPS
Members of the expedition:
Magguy Acevedo, Lis Sable, Jaime Suarez, Hans Siebenhaar.

achieved Summit: Summit North
Museum (six thousand). One of the two main peaks. It is also the south a little higher perhaps. Are the main cusps, around craters occluded by rocks and snow, stood out in this snow. Altitude

summit achieved: Official
IGM 6,430 m 6,373 m GPS. on sea level.

Path:
eastern slope, the "path of martyrdom, at the same laborious.

Location:
This mountain is located in the northwestern province of Catamarca, Argentine territory, in the position South 26 ° 37'559 68 ° 21 '833 West.

best time of climb:
Virtually the best time is from October to March. Because it is still quite zone inaccessible should not encounter in the development of the expedition with no snow.

Difficulty: High mountain
. It is essential to a good acclimatization and previous experience in high, running at high altitude and knowledge of the Andes. You have to take crampons, since glaciers are on the road.

Team: Shop
high. Fuel or gas stove and enough. High Mountain Shelter. Parka and sleeping bag high. Gloves and mittens, shoes double, crampons, poles, hat, sunglasses UV, GPS. Carry plenty of water considering where do the altitude camps.

Access:
already in the province of Catamarca, up route to Step San Francisco - Route 45 - until Gendarmerie control at the border of Las Grutas. Expand details in the story.

RISE TO THE CONDOR - six thousand Museum
Summit 26/01/2008 - Catamarca - ARGENTINA - Datum, WGS 84
Cumbe. MUSEOSEISMILES -26,37.559, -68,21.833,

South Park It's The Japanese

Ojos del Salado, from the top of Walter Penck

SALADO EXPEDITION TO THE EYES OF
1991

Entering from Chile, up from the seal of the Carabineros. (Story and movie filmed in preparation)

ROUTE ARGENTINA TO THE EYES OF SALT

The route through the Rio Cazadero Aguas Calientes, the said Vicente Cichitti, Alfredo Ignacio Magnani and Barn. Route is known as Aguas Calientes. The first ascent by Mathias Rebitsch she made in February 1956

From Cazadero, brown ones, Aguas Calientes
Datum, WGS 84

-27,26.387 Cazadero, -68, 7315, 3459
DIVERSION a), -27,23.797, -68, 8278, DEV-3488
diagram B) -27,22.933, -68, 8456, 3498
QEMADITO -27,22.348, -68,13.502, 3653 March 2 -27,21.468
, -68,15.586,
CURVE 3751 -27, 20,885, -68,15.624, 3778 JET
-27,20.490, -68,16.489, 3828 March 3 -27,20.830
, -68,18.461, 3839 BOARD
-27,20.689, -68,20.504, 3962
CURVE 1 -27,19.139, -68,20.183, 4106 CURVE 2 -27,18.864
, -68,20.267, 4124
-27,18.287 HOT WATER, -68,21.112, 4319 WATER
VICUÑA -27,11.915, -68,25.762, 4949 (arrive with water)
HATCH -27, 9975, -68,27.581, 5551
ARENALES -27, 9062, -68,29.723, 5350
CAMP-1 -27, 8537, -68,30.551, 0.0
CAMP-2 -27, 7699, -68,31.610, 0.0 SUMMIT
-27, 6575, -68,32.486, 6879

Refugio Quemaditos, near Cazadero, about 12 km from the RN60

jaime suarez



El Chorro


jaime suarez



Camp in Aguas Calientes


jaime suarez

Slogan For Fountain Work

TWINS SALT

The Twins from the base camp


TWINS

6,196 m

Made from 3 to February 10, 2005
Location:
This mountain is located in Argentina, in the province of La Rioja, in the position S 27 ° 51'416 and O 068 ° 54'586.
Altitude:
For GPS, 6,147 m sea \u200b\u200blevel; by IGM map, 6,196 m.
Summit Date:
February 9, 2005.
Route Name:
Gladiators.
Promotions:
Our expedition was the 3 rd ascent crowned the summit, Johan Reinhard, USA, and Alexander Von Götz, Germany and was the former, and became the first country.
best time of climb:
November to February.

High mountain. Essential to acclimatize. Also previous experience in high, running at high altitude and very good knowledge of the Andes. There is difficulty to ascend the last 200 meters high summit of the hill. You have to take crampons, although not used, since according to the year by an unexpected snowfall at the beginning or end of season display glaciers on the road, especially at the end. Proper acclimatization is essential.
Team: Shop
high. Fuel or gas stove and enough. High Mountain Shelter.
parka and sleeping bag high, double shoes, crampons, poles. GPS.
Water:
must be worn at least in the vehicle, 10 liters of water per person.
Access:
already in the province of La Rioja, up to Laguna Brava, from there to the Salado River, from where he enfilará parallel north. Access details and itinerary are quoted in the story.

Objective Twins ....

Twins, a name that probably will not appear on any map are in the province of La Rioja, only 10 miles south of the border with Catamarca and 20 miles east of the border with Chile. Part of the peaks remaining virtually unknown in our country. Two cones are almost similar, the North and South peaks separated by a mile away. The North, which is the highest, is about 50 meters higher than the south and north has a false summit to the lower 100 meters of which is separated by a hill that drops from 5,950 meters to the side with the glaciers and west. From the top of this hill you can reach the summit.
Twins is the end of the Sierra del Veladero. This saw is born above the Laguna Brava and extends from south to north for about 26 kilometers. In this system Veladero summit, the inmate and Twins are the main mountains, but despite the map, the latter two seem to be independent of the Sierra.
was proposed as a target, considering it was a mountain with very few ascents in a very pristine area still in exploration. The only impediment that we saw was probably having to leave the truck for several days at altitudes close to 5,000 meters with the resulting problems caused by cold liquids and fuels. We start
from Mendoza to La Rioja, on Thursday, February 3 at 8 am and noon lunch in Villa Union, which completely filled the fuel tanks. From there follow the road until Vinchina and then consolidated road, with traces of asphalt, until you reach the checkpoint at the Reserve de la Laguna Brava in High Jagüé, where once again Don Cirilo Urriche, after the relevant and warm greetings proceeded to charge us admission to the park. Was 15 pesos per vehicle and 10 for each person carried. Like it is always advisable to consult for variations that might occur.

It's nice to watch before getting to High Jagüé, the magnitude of the beautiful silhouette of Chico Bonnet (6759 m) to the northwest and a little later, looking toward the southeast, the snowy Famatina profile and the main summit of 6,107 m. General Belgrano

Past 17 hours we arrived at the shelter The Rock , inevitable place in which its 3,600 meters of altitude acclimatization begins the expedition. We pitched our tents on the side of the shelter, respecting a logical distance from the existing graves of the track is no longer visible, indicating that. We turned and fed a small fire inside the old building and proceeded to prepare a delicious dinner. In the morning we saw, close to our tents, a beautiful and brilliant fox coat for food.
About ten o'clock we left for the Laguna Brava. Once there we leaning on his border to seek access to the remains of the plane that landed there years ago and found almost the opposite. But the level of salt water that we come to the knees, we are discouraged. Continued our journey passing in front of the shelter Laguna Brava (the destapadito), we see the majesty of the bonnet, the Pissis, the prisoner and the Sierra del Veladero, then overcame the refuge of Veladero (S 28 ° 13'467 and O 68 ° 55'263, 4,395 meters) to finally arrive at the Barrancas Blancas, where we were spending the night, but an offer of workers from a nearby bakery, who had helped repair light of his truck, let us sleep in very good roof. Our position S 28 ° 10'416 69 ° 08'692 and O, the height of 4,050 meters, almost about 500 higher than the Rock, we came very well for our plan of acclimatization. As always, once placed in a camp, then proceed walking and climbing around. Later he was very nice to enjoy a good dinner, we could easily prepare and hospitality that was provided. We would leave the next morning to meet the Rio Salado.

Leaving the next day at 9.30 am, just over beyond 8 km we reached the Rio Salado, starting our way north along its banks. At position S 28 ° 03'457 69 ° 09'419 and O by about 4,140 meters and just over seven miles of the river found to have followed the detour after driving three miles to the west, it stood at the "little volcano." S 28 ° 01'380 69 ° 10'994 and O in the 4,210 meters. Jaime suarez

The
Volcancito

This training is the result of a curious and constant eruption of water that has been forged over many years is similar to a cone-shaped volcano. It flows through the center and toward the surface, possibly with some temperature, but on reaching the shore the water can not see any heat. You do not see the bottom, which proves to be very deep.
We return to the position of diversion and face our way north again. Soon we broke the bed of the Rio Salado and move the mountains that separated us from the river on one side and the border with Chile on the other. Quebrada Seca before the North began to look toward the east profiles the back of Veladero, the west front of Reclus and Twins

Jaime Suárez Jaime Suarez

Twins, from track parallel to the Rio Salado

and the south wall of Pissis. We continue our progress on a track with occasional difficulty caused by floods up to S 27 ° 48'172 69 ° 02'640 and O, in the nearly 4,600 meters, where a detour route to Twins, thin wire across the surface that shapes the Salado River plain. Have continued the path we had come to the Valley Wide, to pass the north face and end Pissis out in Las Coipa on the path to Step San Francisco, and in Catamarca.

base camp
From there a steep ascent, which we should use the lock and all our management tricks. Soon we were in the 4,700 meters over loose stones and gravel that we were drifting, until it reached a better surface on the 4,900 meters. We are looking from a nice area down there a few feet to a canyon or channel extinct, which fell at higher elevations, between two large rocky shoulders. It was the ideal place to locate our base camp. Position 27 ° 47'828 68 ° 59'352 and O on the 4,870 meters, five km from the diversion almost eleven of the summit would try. We were delayed four hours to arrive. We pitched a tent
large structural gave us room for everyone, and we would spend two nights in the place and wanted to be as comfortable as possible. In a base camp at almost 4,900 meters high, primarily alone and far from any town or possibility of help is important to maintain good communication and encouragement. We ate very well, we moisturize enough and could not help but admire such a bright and cloudy night sky filled with thousands of stars. Look a lot better than in any city or town to sea level. No longer worry about the large number ray that looked very distant at elevations below ours, and almost all around us. That night listening to the radio we heard very heavy rains in many cities.

I will never stop stressing the importance of proper control of liquid trucks. Despite being summer, on nearly 5,000 meters, temperatures can reach, especially in the predawn hours, easily at 20 degrees below zero. In our tent the first night was at 12 degrees below zero as the thermometer registered abroad added to zip the tent. Therefore the water should be a sufficient antifreeze as well as gas-oil, which precipitated paraffin and prevents it from starting. Disconnect the battery and protect it with a special blanket and shelter from cold wind to the radiator, plugging the more you can, support more than might be supposed. Beware of long bursts to life remaining electrical charge and if necessary wait for the hottest hours to start the vehicle. Logically, going into one vehicle is exposed to no return. Keep a set of cables to connect batteries. Sunday 6
had planned to make a portage with vehicles up to 5,500 meters, where would establish camp 1 and return to Base Camp on Monday as "light baggage." Languages of penitents who were later prevented us from doing so. Climbed nearby hills to acclimatize better and decided to leave on Monday, 7 to Camp One, continuing the original plan, but with all the weight on our shoulders. We enjoyed that evening a small snowfall.

Towards a
camp We start at 8 and a half, with the equipment, tents and food. The sun had started half an hour before breaking up its rays on a thin mantle left by the snow. Lumbering walk a mile and climbing a little over 100 meters towards our mountain. A little high. Five miles later and having risen almost 350 meters further, there appeared a wide penitents high glacier we had to cross, not without some degree of difficulty by their edges and toughness. It took a while and we had to rest at the end of a good time. We climb for more than a mile and reached the 5,427 meters and the place where one would set up camp. We seek the shelter of large stones to protect us from the wind and put up the tents. The next day we would try to reach the summit. Were about seven hours of walking and climbing. The weather seemed to improve. We were in S and 27 ° 49'854 54'392 OR 6 °, a little over 700 meters and nearly 3 km from the point that we had budgeted as the summit.


To our mountain ...
distances and heights that drove us to attempt the summit made possible with a single high camp as well once the sun had appeared. That will avoid spending unnecessary cold. We left on Tuesday 8 again to half past eight armed and well-closed, leaving the tents. We carry a liter of water and running light meal which included some candy. After crossing three glaciers of penitents, smaller this time, we face the rise longitudinally by two long, steep scree, located on the north face of the mountain. It was the effort involved than Hans named the route as "gladiators." The last haul we planned to 5,890 meters. Then came the soft ice coming down the hill that separated the northern peak of his false summit, covered in a regular surface that easily allowed us to place ourselves above fifty yards. We had reached the highest point of the hill. Quickly to the top face north on good-sized stones that facilitated the rise, despite the inclination. The effort will only increase the height. Were almost two hundred meters of hard work, but ultimately crowned the top four highest Twins. It was 14.30 hours, had been an effort of 6 hours from the game, but we now contemplate the beauty of that part of the mountain Argentina. Hans
The Gladiators called route had begun at Camp One high moving from north to south on the north wall of this mountain and carries on the area, then climb on the northeast wall formed by the glacier and the end cone.
Before our eyes stood out the south wall of Pissis displaying their peaks, the glacier and through it the cone of the summit Cardenal Samore. To the south the summit some 50 meters lower South Twin. Further the Reclus and beyond the Veladero. Eastward Bonnet Grande and the edges of the crater of the Caldera del Inca Pillo. The south-east across the bulk of the Bonnet Chico.
Far to the north, beyond the Pissis profile and environment, Tres Cruces, the Three Gorges, the tip of Walter Penck, the peaks that form the crater of the Nativity and the unmistakable silhouette of the Inca Huasi.
was a wonderful show we enjoy the good days we had touched the summit. Photos, collecting the testimony of the expedition of Alexander, who was the second summit, congratulations to Susan for being the first woman and the pride of being the first issue of Argentina in that mountain top.


Jaime, Oscar and Hans at the top. At the back wall Pissis South

Past 15 hours began to return. For every meter down, a little more oxygen filled our lungs tired. Soon we went down the glacier. The long and laborious were now rushing down easy and after three hours we were arriving at a camp. A sleep and the next day would reach the target vehicle, disarm the base camp, starting our trucks and start the long return.
Passing the Laguna Brava we saw that the storms had increased the height of water, and now proudly wearing a larger size and depth. He began a comeback
again, you want God to be the beginning of another adventure in the mountains. Jaime Suárez


February 2005

jaime suarez