NEVADO VOLCANO THE CONDOR
clear objective
were still in my mind pleasant memories of the summit of San Francisco in April 2006, where I successfully repeated the same picture that brought the Inca Huasi Walter Penck in 1913, and then, after filling the summit book and only pressure from a soft, but pretty cool wind, seen looking towards the north and 34 kilometers away Nevado Condor flourished with its 6,400 m, studded with its beautiful peaks of some glaciers, and in the same direction, clockwise, Peinado volcano of 5,741 meters, about 36 km. away. Two volcanoes with very different profiles defined hidden to the normal view of those who cross the mountain, unless you climb a nearby peak. Mountains from which there is very little information and I set in my mind as a next target.
In November 2007 I called my partner of several peaks, Hans Siebenhaar, saying:
- Are you interested in going to Condor? I have WP and Alexander Von Gotz data and Henri Barret!. I answered yes immediately. The proposal came in handy. Alexander both had shared with the expedition to the General Belgrano and vouchers we had crossed many peaks of the Andes, the data deserve our trust.
soon discuss the issue, we trace the ascent schedule and set the release date for the January 19, 2008. The goal had been established.
Heading:
Departing from Mendoza loaded into our vehicles, apart from mountain equipment, a double set of wheels, an extra 20 liter of diesel and another containing kerosene for use as fuel antifreeze. We considered that the trucks would be about 4,800 meters high and the potential for freezing of liquids were very high. Long Pasture
After 10 hours of driving and have been attached to the expedition Fiambala, Magguy and Lis, the directors of mountain museum "The six thousand, with all its equipment including high containers with water, we arrive at sunset to long grass, to Las Coipa, which enters into the West to access Pissis. They would stay that night. Acclimate
the first night on the 3,100 meters is always very convenient. This old and rather destroyed shelter, which served both in the past when cattle are moved to Chile, is very neglected and is used by fishermen, mostly poachers. It had rained hard the previous week and the state of the building was crumbling. We prefer as in previous expeditions set up the tents.
Caves On Sunday 20 to 10 hours after breakfast, we set out to Las Grutas. There, about 4,000 meters would take advantage of two nights to acclimatize. Upon arrival and see silhouetted against the blue sky silhouettes snowfall Inca Huasi and San Francisco, I could not take flight unless the memories: The first time I was on this site was in 1991 moving through long sandy tracks and where many Sometimes we left the vehicle. Took a day access from Tinogasta. Get there and admire the mountains first became an indelible memory. That night bivouacked in a hollow beside a road construction emerging. All very lonely and that was just taken the place both by gendarmerie as provincial roads in mid-November. But as things change!. Today, over the years, you come to Las Grutas in a few hours and there are many climbers and expeditions across national and international overnight to acclimatize in the strategic and comfortable shelter that has Road. And no surprise appreciated as construction continues to grow around, but also can be viewed as no surprise to your existing access is almost impossible, I could never speak, for one reason or another, which is a shame. We
access controls Gendarmerie, make up the peculiar document which appears to be a liability waiver and understand not finished yet, despite having signed a lot more than a dozen times and have experience in ransoms. Once again we settled into the bunker, shelter for a very reasonable price makes the DPV daily Catamarca available to travelers. Usually, if necessary, supply of fuel. After a late lunch at 4,000 feet and then, jokingly, we settled with several more climbers in the comfortable mattresses with berths for a restorative nap. Before dinner we coordinate the objectives for the next day. That afternoon
climb back from San Francisco, in a English expedition, and Cristina Muñoz Mariano Pampillon, along with Omar, all of them old friends from past expeditions and ascents. It was very pleasant to remember the past.
Before the night to take the opportunity to pour gallons of diesel we figured we had in our tanks, 10% of kerosene. It was the best way to protect the fuel from the low temperatures we would have from that night.
The next day, Monday 21 July, took the opportunity to achieve acclimatization. The rest of the group dared to rise to false Morocho and I inspect the ancient Indian ruins in the area and the new building of the nearby hot springs.
towards the objective area of \u200b\u200bthe Andes where we were heading is studded by numerous volcanoes that characterize a particular geography. Some prowling the 6,500 meter high snow-covered peaks and glaciers, others less than 6,000 of strange beauty and sharp conical casting slag. Volcanic ash and contributions of all of them formed large tolerable horizontal drops that freight forwarders, and where there are large salt flats inexorably, salinas, salt lakes and hot springs.
We went to El Condor on Tuesday 22 at 10.15 hours, saying goodbye to our old and new friends. After passing through a 14 km asphalt. from Las Grutas, we reach the point S26 ° ° 14'110 52'0152 and O68, wherein opposite to that place of entry is a traffic signal change, and from there on a marked trail began the march north. The sight of two cones and later look at the back of Bertrand, so different from that provided from Las Grutas, entertaining journey. Soon we began to admire the style and the Condor. The good track soon came to an abrupt and steep descent to the lakes only marked by isolated tracks covered. A decline that began at 13.30, which was not very complicated and 15 minutes later we were standing between them, at 4,000 meters, taking photographs. The Bitter, the largest in the north, is gray-brown and cyanide're saddled by past mining activities. Nevertheless it is appreciated more ceremonial flamingos gliding motion. The other, much smaller and turquoise is located southwest of the first, separated by the flat and not very wide terrace where we were arrested. But the size of the turquoise surface did not prevent it reflects the Condor, but dimly by the movement of water through the wind. Both outlining their perimeters with a thin strip of frost on its shores. A 7 km. in an east of this lake is the summit of Peinado and 18 km. westbound, the summit of El Condor.
Crossing in the middle of the lined lagoons to the Condor slightly marked by a trail that goes to the joint to return to the caves and to Antofagasta de la Sierra. Fourteen miles later, at position S26 ° O68 ° 18'875 35'034 and now nearly 4,400 feet started, leaving his imprint, direct entry to where would you set up base camp. Three miles and a half later and now on 4,800 meters high, introducing a wide opening that left two small cords mountain, looking for the best possible place and find it very soon in an area a little flatter and somewhat protected. Base Camp 120
Before 1 pm we had arrived at that would be our base camp. Just over two hours we needed to travel along a tolerable track just over 60 km. that separated us from Las Grutas. We were in position and O68 S26 ° 36'172 18'755 °, and the not inconsiderable height of 4,838 meters. And while this point we are closer to the summit, the vehicles were heavily exposed to extreme dawn low temperatures. We put the truck with the front towards the rocks and wrapped the fuel filter, some pipes and drums and pieces of insulated blanket. As well as crowning the summit, wanted to preserve the return.
would spend in the camp the night of arrival and the next day, so we set up a tent structure that would give us great comfort to acclimatize and sleep. In just over half an hour was up and habitable. The opened eating a delicious melon in it and making one for the day slip back from the summit.
The name of the "base camp 120" came out at night as a reflection of the two "somewhat" old members of the expedition, and was fairly easy baptism, only had to add both ages would have more shortly.
The next day, Wednesday 23 will be dedicated to study the route of ascent. Hans wanted to approach the base camp that Alex had more than 100 feet above, nearly 5,000 and which was using a gasoline engine vehicle. Also arrived in that little acclimatization ascent to the 5,150 meters in height, place at the beginning piedrerío that characterize the larger retail route. We returned to prepare the mountain team from next day we go with the escalation and in these nerve preparations soon we found the evening. We had dinner comfortably seated on stools, with good light and with an improvised and practice table. And amenities would be over after tomorrow.
Camp Alex - 1
high
On Thursday, 24 began the ascent itself. The aim would be to come to camp 1 used by Alexander who was above the 5,500 meters. Ahead would have a slope of more than 700 meters. We left after 9 and a half with all equipment, food for the day expedition and about 4 liters of water each and we did not know if we would find snow to melt. Also numbered my pack crampons, a can of peaches in syrup (when I was younger had two) and carp. It was a lot of weight for me and for that gap.
As we saw yesterday, about 5,150 meters began to stand in our way a carry stones as we ascended gradually increases in size proportionally inexorable. It was not easy in the sea of \u200b\u200brocks to find the precise route and we had to make continuous adjustments in the stone running tide. Past the 16 hours prior to a new and sharp slopes, studded with stones also quite a bad move by fatigue and the consequent inclination of the heavy backpack gave me a sharp pain muscle on the side, I began to accompany. A little further up Magguy moved the weight of the tent carrying his backpack. Luckily we soon found horizontal tongues coated with coarse sand.
was an ideal place for a camp and agreed to provide him with Alex WP Hans. After nearly 7 hours of heavy promotion that would give the name to our path, "path of martyrdom." I do not think it was for less, the combination of carry much weight, combined with continually work on stones conditioned us to put that name. The location of Camp 1, we would call "Alex" is S26 ° O68 ° 37'222 and 20'299 and 5,574 meters altitude. I think there best place around for a high camp. Come close flourished a group of penitents who allowed us to replace the worn out water and leave something for the return. We traveled in a drop of almost 750 meters 3,150 m. away. No separated about 850 meters to the summit and a distance of nearly 3 miles. It was a lot of work on a heavy field of promotion try to address the summit in one day. We planned our schedule a second camp that we would attack the day of the summit the chance to leave and return to the sun. Moving in the dark slopes such a group of several climbers can be very risky, as good flashlight to carry. After
set up the tents we devoured the four the "heavy" can of peaches in syrup. Rested a little tired, and then continue to eat more and are "mentally prepared" while we rest, for dinner about 20 hours and then sleep as they could. The mood of the group was great, and some out of tune songs that night were heard from the tent of women and men. Camp 2
high
On Friday 25, leaving some things to consider rationing excess weight and best food for the remaining days of the climb, we started with good sun, just after 10 am, in search of a second camp high. Flourished before us two sharp peaks, of course with plenty of big rocks. Left a gray and another to the right of brownish tone. Resolutely face gray and little by little, stone by stone were rising. It was extremely laborious but we pander the idea that there would be a long day, since the idea was to find a campsite for the 5,800 meters in height and no more. Nearly one in the afternoon, two hours after the game, there are two small places quite acceptable to make a camp 2 meters high, they needed very little leveling. The position and O68 S26 ° 37'441 ° 20'504 and 5,799 meters altitude. We did not think to find, but tents were separated by rocks, better place, then the next day it would corroborate. We had quite a few patches of snow stuck between the rocks nearby, and later we could get, but a little work, meltwater flowed between the rocks.
Camp 2 was a balcony where we admired the hairstyle and gaps, can also see the tent and trucks in the distance, and Alex campsite, which separated us just about 540 meters and only 225 meters. But we were much closer to the summit, approximately 2,500 feet away and just over 600 meters height difference. And the 5,800 still sleep well. Towards the summit
On Saturday January 26 was the day of summit. Early breakfast and dressed in sleeping bags. Then we proceeded to the slow process of loading clothes into the bag then a liter of water, food summit, the parka, waterproof pants, mittens and crampons. At last I could really feel my pack light. At 8 and a half in the morning close the tents, they would wait for our return, and departed. The beginning was tedious, especially when addressing to the right to enter the channel formed by the union of rock cords descending from higher areas.
We should very carefully and avoid losing height, reach a higher level from which it became a little more comfortable ascent. Finally started to step on snow. Nearly two hours later we continued on that channel to the left of which we had stepped snowy peaks to the end of which was the industry summit, and right hills that were losing importance as the amount outclassed their level.
At 11 and a half stop, and reached the 6,100 meters for a rest and get water and some fruit in the mouth. We soon spotted the snowy hill separating the southern and northern craters, main cusps of this great mountain. Hans, Alex following points resolutely faced north. To climb better and we had to put crampons on the glacier upstream zigzageos lining the top. Past 14 hours surpassed the 6,300 meters and finally 15 hours we met on the highest rock formation that jutted over 6,400 meters in the south of the north crater.
Broadly speaking, these two large sections of the summit, the north and south, are formed by lips around his sharp peaks but occluded craters. Although there on this mountain, distributed at lower levels, more craters. Carefully look worried and we had the height of the South, and we saw visually at the height of that hollábamos, as about 500 m away. He was very even throughout. If there are differences in height, would be a few meters. Were known the sulfur yellow spots on the side of access to it, in front of us. Jaime Suarez
The south summit of the volcano El Condor from "six thousand Museum"
Magguy and Lis
eagerly sought evidence to the greater height of the tower of rocks. Barrett knew that Henri had climbed both summits, the 1966, 2002, South and North which was also reached by photo-after I could see, "Alex Von Gotz with another German. Hans soon feel with shouts of joy, the girls had found proof of the issue of Glass and Bracali, January 2007, which indicated that would be directed also to the south summit. Put our proof that it was a piece of fabric with all our names. Our expedition was the fourth rise this sector of the Condor and to further differentiate the top of the other was christened the "Museum six thousand" in the effort to disseminate more effort than mountain activities, made our young companions. We read the GPS
reached this January 26, 2008 in the position summit and O68 S26 ° 37'558 21'833 °, the 6,430 meters. Southbound 20 kilometers Sulphur False, and the Inca Huasi 45 kilometers. To the southwest, 30 miles, was almost completely noticeable Laguna Verde, Chile, after which the eyes. Northbound clearly highlighted the snowy Antofalla profile to 130 kilometers away. And so we continue to delight us with the unique landscape that provides a summit, while joyfully exchanged comments and some were talking to ourselves.
Back ...
had been about seven hours of laborious ascent to reach the summit, and we had to return. Forty minutes after we started reached return, retracing the footprints left first, and the memory of the big stones and benchmarks later. At 20.30 we were opening the tent waiting for us in camp 2. Were 12 hours of continuous activity and emotions. It was for a hot tea, a meal to recover energy and a good rest.
The next day, Monday 27, without any trouble and after disarming the camp, we left base camp 120. We had a drop of almost 1,000 meters and a distance between us just over 3 and a half miles. We expect a mature and fragrant melon and four cans of beer to celebrate, but also disarm the tent and the intrigue of being able to start vehicles after spending several nights with temperatures below zero.
And then return, due to Antofagasta de la Sierra. But that's another long story. Jaime Suárez
January 2008
expedition from 19 to 30 January 2008.
Summit Date: January 26, 2008.
SHEET RISE:
Nevado THE CONDOR (Catamarca - Argentina)
6,430 m. GPS
Members of the expedition:
Magguy Acevedo, Lis Sable, Jaime Suarez, Hans Siebenhaar.
achieved Summit: Summit North
Museum (six thousand). One of the two main peaks. It is also the south a little higher perhaps. Are the main cusps, around craters occluded by rocks and snow, stood out in this snow. Altitude
summit achieved: Official
IGM 6,430 m 6,373 m GPS. on sea level.
Path:
eastern slope, the "path of martyrdom, at the same laborious.
Location:
This mountain is located in the northwestern province of Catamarca, Argentine territory, in the position South 26 ° 37'559 68 ° 21 '833 West.
best time of climb:
Virtually the best time is from October to March. Because it is still quite zone inaccessible should not encounter in the development of the expedition with no snow.
Difficulty: High mountain
. It is essential to a good acclimatization and previous experience in high, running at high altitude and knowledge of the Andes. You have to take crampons, since glaciers are on the road.
Team: Shop
high. Fuel or gas stove and enough. High Mountain Shelter. Parka and sleeping bag high. Gloves and mittens, shoes double, crampons, poles, hat, sunglasses UV, GPS. Carry plenty of water considering where do the altitude camps.
Access:
already in the province of Catamarca, up route to Step San Francisco - Route 45 - until Gendarmerie control at the border of Las Grutas. Expand details in the story.
RISE TO THE CONDOR - six thousand Museum
Summit 26/01/2008 - Catamarca - ARGENTINA - Datum, WGS 84
Cumbe. MUSEOSEISMILES -26,37.559, -68,21.833,
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