Mercedario
Mercedario from the Pampa del Leoncito International Expedition made by declaring the year 1993 INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF THE ANDES MOUNTAINS.
Mercedario
"Fifty-nine years later, and a day before ..."
by Jaime Suárez
concluded
particularly successful with the International Expedition organized by the Pan American Federation of Mountaineering (UPAM), Mendoza's Mountaineering Federation and the National Guard
quote these beautiful words of Don Antonio de Nigris BEORCHIA of his book "The enigma of Indian Sanctuaries high mountain", in relation to Mercedario:
... "There is a mountain like another, just as we can not find two people are alike. There are beautiful mountains, there are stunning, slim, solid, blunt, rough, rough, wild, but there are also soft and white as a bride; the find colorful and cheerful, or gray and withered; pleasant and hospitable, or aggressive, even murderous. That is, as varied in appearance and "personality" as men can be together. In our Mercedario could be defined as "majestic" because it is huge, massive, magnificent ... "
Pichiregua The Mercedario was called by the Indians who inhabited areas and Ligua Calingasta by Araucanian Indians. Mercedario was baptized by the explorer and geographer Pissis. He was crowned with modern, first, by the Poles Victor Ostrowski, Adam Karpinsky, Esteban Esteban Daszynski and Osiecki, 18 January 1934. Each
years, Mendoza's Mountaineering Federation, like other American federations, submits draft climbing and climbing to the board of UPAME in 1992, was approved and selected by the Ordinary Meeting of this body held in Mexico, the ascent From January 11, 1993 Mercedario Mount, located in San Juan, Argentina, dedicated to commemorate 1993 INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF THE CORDILLERA OF THE ANDES "And that would meet the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) in October of that year in Santiago, Chile.
again had the invaluable assistance and support of the Prison National, through its Squadron 27, Punta de Vacas and Rescue Teams, with whom he had promoted the Tupungato the previous year, for organizing this expedition.
During November and December 1992 were signing up for this climb climbers of the Mexican Federation of Hiking and Mountaineering Club, Explorations Mexico, English Federation of Mountaineering, Mountain Club of San Agustín (Palencia, Spain), UEC Mountain club (Barcelona , Spain), club EIGER (Murcia, Spain), Federation of Chile Climbing, Mountaineering Patrol Club Andino Aguila Azul (Chile), Universidad de Rio Cuarto, University Buenos Aires, Club Andinista Mendoza, Andes Talleres Sport Club, University Mountaineering Club (UNC), Club Alpino Italiano and Coop. Natura Inti.
We all gathered and started the expedition composed of 37 climbers from Uspallata January 11, to Barreal in San Juan, in the foothills and across the board reliable Unimog, the Pampa del Leoncito, after penetrating to the West to a just beyond the yellow house at the foot of the mountains. The next day with some of the burden on mules, they ascended 765 meters up to camp in the area of \u200b\u200bVeguitas to 2766 m. and close to the stream coming down, filtering, Laguna Blanca. Early
began on 13 promotion of 925 m. where would the next camp, and at 3700 m., place from which to return the mules. who had collaborated with the load. Seven days later again for us.
The dawn of day 14 we found the climbers coming up with all the load in their backpacks for "Cuesta Blanca," a glacier steep slope of more than 300 mts. high (now defunct), arriving late to a protected trodden the same Mercedario surrounding mountains, called Indian Pircas, 5000 m. being tall and 17 hours. On day 15 was dedicated to the group level, acclimatization on that site. This is where you can observe several ruined Inca stone walls, that all costs must be preserved and not touching. Forces recovered and took the water flowing beneath the rocks, for hydration of the group. On 16
resumed the climb early. About 100 meters above the Indian Drywall and on the ridge road to the summit cairn appeared another looked like a watchtower demolished because it is dominated the environment many miles away, so we appreciated the Pampa del Leoncito and the brightness of the astronomical observatory dome is close to it.
It then crossed the glacier of Caballito and trampled the Mercedario, where he paid tribute to the Gendarmerie Commander Marchesi whose ashes rest in a lonely niche over 5400 meters at a site just walked by climbers. It continued, battered by a relentless blizzard, to the "Tooth" at approx. 6000 m., where he set out the camp to the summit. Thither
would break the next day, being a night of little sleep and annoying height, prevailing cold and nervousness of "summit."
finally arrived the morning of day 17 and 8 hours after the first started climbing towards the summit of Mercedario. In the shadows that had not yet touched by the rays of the sun, the cold is felt in hands and feet despite the special coat after sun movement and temperature normalized bodies.
Four hours after departure, following up several false peaks, the summit was reached Mercedario, watching from her the beauty of the Cordillera Central, with the imposing Aconcagua, South, Donoso, and Ansilta the north, the Pampa Leoncito line east and west Pacific Ocean. Twenty-two people
that day reached 6770 meters in height of the 4 th Summit of the West, could not remember any reference in such a large group that crowned the summit.
Mercedario, part of the group at the summit.
another anniversary is commemorated that day, the National Gendarmerie Squadron 27, and his change of major, and particularly thanked the Chief Commander Juan Antonio Torah for its support of American mountaineering, this was also the first official ascent for the declaration of the International Year of the Cordillera de los Andes (UPAME, UIAA).
The expedition was not without its concerns, to 6000 m. cerebral edema was declared one of the members, who after a long night to be assisted by physicians of the expedition, and after organizing groups for the evacuation, was down to 3000 m. high, the refuge of Fabrications Military, from where a helicopter took him to Barreal Prison, where he was discharged the next day.
quote here the account of the situation, appreciated by the English climber Jose Mijares, with small dimensions "... But our joy was cut off suddenly when we saw an Argentine member of the expedition stayed in the Tooth, was very sick. The doctor diagnosed cerebral edema, had lost consciousness and could not leave the store or to urinate. His appearance, sad, alarmed the whole camp, if not down right away, that night could be the last. Were Just two hours for the evening and get a dead weight of 80 kilos is not easy for people exhausted. We are organized in groups, the leader of the expedition, along with three colleagues and I would go down to base camp at 3,800 m., place from which we could tell by radio to the military helicopter. Another group of Indians fall to Pirca to wait for the baton the next day and continue down the sick, if he could overcome that terrible night. The rest, only four men and the doctor would attend to sick all over a very long night, as he said later was the most difficult of their lives. Meanwhile our doctor Gustavo Irusta, an experienced mountaineer, he administered corticosteroids. At dawn, the patient was a little better. Had spent 48 hours at 6,000 m, not sleeping and all the cumulative effort by all the activity, and yet fell on their shoulders to the patient. Mariano Muñoz was waiting in Indian Pirca with other partners to make over and had prepared the food and the shops where he would rest the group. Without wasting a minute, charged on new shoulders to the sick, to 4,000 m. In this place looked a mule list ... "
The Gendarmerie helicopter, although he had come, would not operate for a number of" justification "to Pirca of Indians. Patient immediately climbed on the mule that had prepared and little by little, step by step, into a gentle descent along the edge height difference, which helped, was recovering. We arrived at the shelter
military manufacturing, where we hosted a group of San Juan which was occupied and then settled into my sleeping bag, pass a better night. The next morning, and provided very things came to this site the helicopter and from there took him to hospital Barreal. There is footage of this last step on my part.
A day later came to base camp Gustavo and his group completely exhausted and hungry for news. It was a great team effort to save the life of a man who had died without such coordination. Keep counting
Jose Mijares: "The Gendarmerie truck picked us up again with Barreal, where we expected the patient recovered. In the city the issue it was news, and we lunch at the local pub, we expected the patient, who appeared as a ghost, going wobbly to embrace the doctor. Unable to hold back emotion, started clapping and utter alive. It came from beyond ... "
Fifty-nine years and one day before the first issue of the Poles, had reached the summit of this beautiful and enigmatic mountain. It was a great and important experience for climbers from different places and countries, every day together to increase the interest in this activity.
Jaime Suárez 1993
Cerro Mercedario towards Indian Pirca
Mercedario Summit with Mariano Muñoz
jaime suarez
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